Starts on easy jugs, and gets progressively harder as you get higher. Pull a few moves off some small crimps and setup for the final desperate crux at the anchors.
First route on the left side of the Mainwall. On the small pillar just left of the chimney. Between Phrenology and Battering Ram.
4 Bolts to Anchors
Jenna Lupia low on the route
|By Dave Wachter|
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short but sustained. Bouldery crux at the top will test your crimp and core reserves. Maybe with lots of power endurance and perfect beta this could go at 12b... why can't we all just be sick-strong like Mike and crush our way through on-sight and say, "that wasn't too bad, now was it?" "12-!" Great route, though, for sure, whatever the grade!
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 15, 2010
Hey Dave, after an extensive alcohol fueled debate about my proposed downgrades on Mountain Project, I realized that this is one I wasn't sure of. So I've updated the rating to reflect the consensus and probably more accurate grade of 12c. I still think that Rogue Warrior might be harder than this.
Now about the Demon... I'm staying solid on that one.