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Midnight Rock
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After Midnight 
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Flake Out 
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Meltdown 
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Union with Earth 
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Weather Report 

Meltdown 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2004
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 7, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side.

A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....

Description 

Begin as for Flake Out. Instead of climbing the overhanging left-leaning corner, move up right and climb the face right of the arete.

Route description from vainokodas.com/climbing/coroutes/midnight.html used with permission.


Protection 

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of Meltdown Slideshow Add Photo
Cranking up the headwall to the anchors.
Cranking up the headwall to the anchors.
Comments on Meltdown Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Aug 6, 2006

As with many obscure Kodas routes, this needs cleaning.

The lower half feels pretty contrived, clinging to a slab just above a much easier and uglier chimney/gully, but the upper headwall achieves good position.

By Robbie the Dog
Aug 5, 2007

I concur with the above comment. Dirty, and the bottom is sort of silly, climbing next to a gully. Also, though the above headwall is fun, there's an unpleasantly hollow large flake at the beginning.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Feb 28, 2009

I thought this route was pretty fun. There's a cool step-across about halfway up and then a crimpy headwall finish with a good position.