Meltdown 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2004 |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Jun 7, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side.
A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....
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Description Begin as for Flake Out. Instead of climbing the overhanging left-leaning corner, move up right and climb the face right of the arete.
Route description from vainokodas.com/climbing/coroutes/midnight.html used with permission.
Protection 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Cranking up the headwall to the anchors.
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By david goldstein
Aug 6, 2006
| As with many obscure Kodas routes, this needs cleaning.
The lower half feels pretty contrived, clinging to a slab just above a much easier and uglier chimney/gully, but the upper headwall achieves good position. |
By Robbie the Dog
Aug 5, 2007
| I concur with the above comment. Dirty, and the bottom is sort of silly, climbing next to a gully. Also, though the above headwall is fun, there's an unpleasantly hollow large flake at the beginning. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Feb 28, 2009
| I thought this route was pretty fun. There's a cool step-across about halfway up and then a crimpy headwall finish with a good position. |
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