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Redgarden - Tower One
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Mellow Yellow 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Larry and Roger Dalke, 1968, FFA: Wunsch, Bragg, 1975. Roof seam finish: 5.12a, Micheals, Sonnefield, 1986.
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Pins, 1 Anchor Pin, 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 2,428
Submitted By: bhoran on Jan 3, 2009
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The final 12a headwall pitch.

Photo by Joel Ander...

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  • Description 

    This climbs a series of dihedrals and roofs on the southwest face of Tower One.

    P1. At a northwestern point of the Upper Ramp, climb over a roof to a dihedral, 5.9, leading to a belay below the prominent apex roof.

    P2. Climb up and through the steep apex of the roof, 5.11d, to a slab belay above.

    P3. Climb over the next roof system, 5.11c,and up to the top of the dihedral and belay.

    P4. Climb up to the next large roof with a thin crack splitting it. Climb out left, 5.9, under the roof, and connect with the last pitch of The Yellow Spur. Climb out the thin crack in the roof at 5.12a, via bolts, for added difficulty.


    Location 

    This climbs a series of dihedrals and roofs on the southwest face of Tower One.


    Protection 

    Full rack and some bolts.



    Photos of Mellow Yellow Slideshow Add Photo
    Bob Horan, barefoot, and Chip Ruckgaber on Mellow Yellow.
    Bob Horan, barefoot, and Chip Ruckgaber on Mellow ...
    Leading P1.  <br /> <br />It's possible to start on the first two bolts on "Yellow Fellow", and then traverse left and work up to the roof.
    Leading P1.

    It's possible to start on the first ...
    Comments on Mellow Yellow Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott Bennett
    Mar 4, 2009
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Some of these comments are already covered under the link-up "Mellow Fellow", but I thought I'd add them here for completeness.

    This is a great climb, and the hard climbing is well protected. The 11d crux on p1 sports a fixed pin that gives a top rope for the hardest moves, and this can be backed with good gear a few feet lower. Just above the lip of the roof, there is a perfect slot for a #2 Camalot.

    There is a fixed sling/piton/nut anchor at the top of p1, so one could rap from here, but P2 is also very good and interesting. It gets hard right off the belay, fortunately there are a few fixed pins here. After clipping the last pin, one can go straight up into the corner; this looked hard. We reached out right to some great huecos and pulled over the roof this way. After the roof, this pitch gets much easier (5.9ish), but the protection is small and well spaced.

    I would be interested in trying the 12a seam variation for the last pitch, but we were scared off by the rotten looking bolts (1/4" buttonheads w/ Leeper hangers?). I don't know anything about replacing bolts- do you have to apply for permission with the park? If anyone with knowledge and experience wants to get up there and put some good hardware in, feel free to send me an email and I'll come out and help.
    -Scott

    By Scott Bennett
    Dec 2, 2010
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Replaced the bolts on the final pitch today. Thanks to Josh Thompson for the expertise and ASCA for the hardware.

    By Ben Walburn
    Dec 18, 2010
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

    Thanks for the work, Scott.

    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 20, 2010

    Double thanks on the work, Scott!

    By Ben Walburn
    May 11, 2011
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

    After years of looking at the striking giant roofs and headwall, my friend Cody and I climbed this mega classic yesterday. Again I would like to thank Scott B. for replacing those bolts as the headwall pitch is not to be missed, especially now that the hardware was updated.

    The pins in the roofs are good. The "anchor" atop the first pitch is so-so, but like Scott said, you can back it up. If you're not pumped silly, keep going through the next roof. You will find an upward-pointing flake to sling (there were two slings on it already) and just to the right is a shallow but good crack for a natural anchor (sizes in the 0.3 range/yellow Aliens). The 5.9 section is a little run out to get started, but adequate gear is found a little further up.

    Splitting this in two pitches is the way to go. P1) through both roofs; P2) the 5.9 section/the 12a headwall/ to the top.

    By Jesse Huey
    Apr 16, 2012

    Thank you for the retro bolting. It would be nice to have the old bolts removed. Currently there are 2 bolts side by side.

    By Joseph P. Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Apr 17, 2012

    Jesse, let's get this straight. What I am hearing is that the old bolts were chopped (i.e. heads sawed off) and new holes drilled and new bolts put in next to the chopped ones?

    By Jesse Huey
    Sep 15, 2012

    Joseph... the current situation: new bolts next to old bolts. All still in the wall as of Sept. 14 2012.