Mellifluous 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Rick Thompson & Bob Value, Oct. 1985 |
| Submitted By: | DaveB on Apr 20, 2007 |
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Mellifluous (5.11a), a beautiful NRG classic!
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Description Classic NRG route with good variety...crack (tips-fingers-hands), thin face/slab (crux), and steep flake (layback).
Climb crack to vertical slot mid-route. Protect well, solve slabby crux and move up face to nice horizontal. Then, follow left-leaning crack to flake and proceed to the top. Crux is brief, but technical, and requires some thought.
Pro is good.
Location After descending Fern Point ladders, walk left through corridor along wall. Pass an arete/corner to the left and continue along Fern Point Slab area. Look for an obvious roof at the top of the cliff with a distinct right-facing flake. The route starts directly below in an awkward, shallow, flaring dihedral. Have fun!
Protection Small to medium pro. TCUs work nicely in spots. Anchor shuts found to the left (some crawling under roof may be required).
Dave Pagel
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Top half of Melifluous
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By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11a
| There is a good pee-nut or HB placement in the middle of the crux slab. This really helps to make the climb safer. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
May 2, 2008
| I seem to remember small stoppers protecting the crux just fine, and maybe even a blue TCU before the "move". |
By bob bickford
Feb 2, 2009
| Great route, I remember potecting the crux with a small HB nut |
By Sam Stephens
Jan 24, 2010
| Great route. If you want some great pictures get someone to take them from the cliff top about 100 feet to the left. You get some really cool exposed photos of the upper section and the wall is gorgeous. |
By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
May 10, 2010
| I don’t really know how to pronounce this climb and apparently I don’t know how to climb it either as I got totally dismantled in the middle section. But seriously, the climb is stellar especially the expose, juggy top. Thank you Chad Heddleston for setting this one up on lead! |
By Alan Howell
May 8, 2012
| To say this crux is technical is an understatement. The rest of the route is certainly classic however. Bring your brassies. |
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