Classic NRG route with good variety...crack (tips-fingers-hands), thin face/slab (crux), and steep flake (layback).
Climb crack to vertical slot mid-route. Protect well, solve slabby crux and move up face to nice horizontal. Then, follow left-leaning crack to flake and proceed to the top. Crux is brief, but technical, and requires some thought.
Pro is good.
After descending Fern Point ladders, walk left through corridor along wall. Pass an arete/corner to the left and continue along Fern Point Slab area. Look for an obvious roof at the top of the cliff with a distinct right-facing flake. The route starts directly below in an awkward, shallow, flaring dihedral. Have fun!
Small to medium pro. TCUs work nicely in spots. Anchor shuts found to the left (some crawling under roof may be required).
Mellifluous (5.11a), a beautiful NRG classic!
the sweet finish
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
There is a good pee-nut or HB placement in the middle of the crux slab. This really helps to make the climb safer.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
May 2, 2008
I seem to remember small stoppers protecting the crux just fine, and maybe even a blue TCU before the "move".
|By bob bickford|
Feb 2, 2009
Great route, I remember potecting the crux with a small HB nut
|By Sam Stephens|
Jan 24, 2010
Great route. If you want some great pictures get someone to take them from the cliff top about 100 feet to the left. You get some really cool exposed photos of the upper section and the wall is gorgeous.
|By Greg Sudlow|
May 10, 2010
I donít really know how to pronounce this climb and apparently I donít know how to climb it either as I got totally dismantled in the middle section. But seriously, the climb is stellar especially the expose, juggy top. Thank you Chad Heddleston for setting this one up on lead!
|By Alan Howell|
May 8, 2012
To say this crux is technical is an understatement. The rest of the route is certainly classic however. Bring your brassies.
From: West Hartford, Connecticut
May 27, 2014
Was happy I had some brass offsets for the crux pro...trust the toe jam!