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Meister's Edge
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Meister's Edge 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Joe Herbst (TR)
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,349
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on May 1, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The crux above the second mantle.

Description 

The crux occurs after the second mantle move, when you have to pull through a small left hand crimp. I rated this route PG-13, in that if you fell before clipping the second bolt (while performing the first mantle) you would likely fall onto the huge boulder underneath. This route is really more like three small boulder problems, in that you could fall asleep resting on the ledges after you pull the moves. =)

Location 

This is the obvious arete to the west as you head towards the black corridor, before you enter the tanks. It is one of the most easily photogenic route I've climbed.

Protection 

3 bolts and the anchors (Anchors have been added since the publishing of the Swain Book).

Edit- As of 11/18/07 there is only one bolt at the previous anchor spot. You'll have to walk off the top, or rap off a quicklink on the third and now fourth bolt.


Photos of Meister's Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Conquering the Meister's Edge arete.
Conquering the Meister's Edge arete.

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