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Tower One
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Medussa 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pat McInerney, Scott Lockart and Erik Paul, August 1993
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,783
Submitted By: tenesmus on Apr 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Pulling the roof
  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description 

    One of the best sport routes in Little Cottonwood. Starts out slabby, turns vertical and then steepens for the steepest .11 climbing I've seen anywhere.


    Location 

    The left side of the the main cave on Tower 1


    Protection 

    draws, a few long runners, 60M rope. I used a .75 camalot in the middle and its easy to place. Some might want another hand sized piece but don't make too much drag. Please wear a helmet.



    Photos of Medussa Slideshow Add Photo
    Medussa at Hellgate.  Looks like hell but its a fun climb.  Steep limestone in LCC
    Medussa at Hellgate. Looks like hell but its a fu...
    Comments on Medussa Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By David Shiembob
    From: slc, ut
    Jul 14, 2007

    Really good. Use runners on bolts 4 and 6 to reduce drag. The .75 camalot is nice to have. The top is wild!

    By lange jeffries
    Jun 17, 2010

    Great exit move!

    By Tim Wolfe
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Apr 23, 2012
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Tricky exit moves figuring which way to go and not blowing the lead.

    By T_jones
    From: Salty Lake
    Aug 2, 2012

    One of the best routes around hands down. So fun!

    By KipHenrie
    From: centerville, utah
    Aug 4, 2012

    Absolutely stunning. The adrenaline really starts at the top. The exposure is insane.

    By Spencer Weiler
    From: SLC, UT
    Jul 10, 2013

    it wanders, has semi bad drag, weird bolting, lots of ledgy no hands rests, and the fact that it requires one cam is strange, but I can say it was by far the most fun sport climb i've done in LCC. Lieback the massive flake at the top to glory!

    By split161
    Sep 7, 2013
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    fight the pump on the flake...fun!