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Routes in South/Southeast (Right) Face
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B.F.G., The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cast Away S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Chips Ahoy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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David S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dementor S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flotsam & Jetsam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Stairs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Goliath S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hippogriff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Medusa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shipwrecked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Adam Read |
| Page Views: | 1,586 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on May 27, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
This line while not as classic as the other tower routes due to it's less than perfect rock and squeezed feeling is worth doing once you have sent all the other routes on the tower, or are just looking for another 12c to prepare for the harder tower routes.
Head up the slabby ramp of Golden Stairs to the 5th Bolt. Here head straight up through steep jugs past the 6th and 7th bolts. Make a hard move pulling over the roof at the 7th bolt on small pockets, to sustained pocket pulling past the next two bolts. At the ninth bolt head slightly right to the anchors.
For the 12c grade head left at the 8th bolt, to me this felt like the natural line. The holds can be tough to spot on the onsight burn.
For the 12b grade break right at the 8th bolt to climb jugs close to Golden Stairs.
Head up the slabby ramp of Golden Stairs to the 5th Bolt. Here head straight up through steep jugs past the 6th and 7th bolts. Make a hard move pulling over the roof at the 7th bolt on small pockets, to sustained pocket pulling past the next two bolts. At the ninth bolt head slightly right to the anchors.
For the 12c grade head left at the 8th bolt, to me this felt like the natural line. The holds can be tough to spot on the onsight burn.
For the 12b grade break right at the 8th bolt to climb jugs close to Golden Stairs.
Photos
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