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Medlicott Area

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Dozier Dome 
Medlicott Dome, Center 
Medlicott Dome, Left 
Medlicott Dome, Right 
Sticks and Stones 

Medlicott Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.86303, -119.4331 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,161
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
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A golden granite face

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  • Description 

    Medlicott Dome is perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

    Getting There 

    For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 10.5 miles from here

    51 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',6],['5.8',7],['5.9',8],['5.10',17],['5.11',9],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Medlicott Area

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Medlicott Area:
    Holdless Horror   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   Dozier Dome
    Bull Dozier   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Dozier Dome
    Errett By Bit   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 260'   Dozier Dome
    Errett Out   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   Dozier Dome
    Isostacy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 470'   Dozier Dome
    Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Felsic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Dozier Dome
    Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    The Yawn   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Cheetos and Everclear   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   Dozier Dome
    Ciebola   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Ursula   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   Dozier Dome
    Loco Yokel   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    15 Minutes of Fame   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Bachar-Yerian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Medlicott Area

    Featured Route For Medlicott Area
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route is clearly seen between the trees.

    Bachar-Yerian 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Right
    P1-5.11c/.12a Head up the ramp at the left end of the B-Y ledge for a ways, then climb easy knobs up to the base of the prominent black streak, reach from the horizontal to clip a bolt. V3/V4 boulder problem, and all that that implies about the grade, gets you established above the bulge, clip another bolt. continuous 5.11- climbing gets you to a left facing flake that would take a .75 camalot, I believe. Follow the flake to the anchor. Relatively well protected, though pounding into the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

    Photos of Medlicott Area Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Rock Climbing Photo: A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    Rock Climbing Photo: summit of Medlicott Dome
    summit of Medlicott Dome
    Rock Climbing Photo: That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    Rock Climbing Photo: That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott Dome.
    Medlicott Dome.

    Comments on Medlicott Area Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Barnes
    Jun 10, 2012
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.

    nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...

    Here's the sign at the parking area:

    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
    Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
    By BCramer
    From: Prescott
    Sep 3, 2014
    For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

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