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Medlicott Dome

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Medlicott Dome, Left 
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Medlicott Dome Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.85618, -119.42388 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,956
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
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  • Description 

    Perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

    Getting There 

    For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 10.5 miles from here

    30 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',9],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Medlicott Dome

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Medlicott Dome:
    Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    The Yawn   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Ciebola   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Loco Yokel   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    15 Minutes of Fame   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Big Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Bachar-Yerian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Medlicott Dome

    Featured Route For Medlicott Dome
    Rock Climbing Photo: Loco Yokel 5.10d another great route.

    Loco Yokel 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Left
    This two pitch climb is another great modern route by the FA team, sure to be a future classic as it cleans up with more attention.Pitch 1: Wander up about 40 feet of easy blocky terrain and fishish with 80 feet of sustained, excellent liebacking right up to the bolted belay. 5.10d ~120 feet.Pitch 2: Crux face past two bolts near the belay leads to super fun, large golden knobs and five more bolts to another bolted belay. 5.10b ~120 feet.Rap the route a single 60 meter rappel to the ground w...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

    Photos of Medlicott Dome Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Rock Climbing Photo: A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    Rock Climbing Photo: summit of Medlicott Dome
    summit of Medlicott Dome
    Rock Climbing Photo: That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    Rock Climbing Photo: That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott Dome.
    Medlicott Dome.

    Comments on Medlicott Dome Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Barnes
    Jun 10, 2012
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.

    nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...

    Here's the sign at the parking area:

    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
    Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
    By BCramer
    From: Prescott
    Sep 3, 2014
    For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

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