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Medlicott Dome

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Medlicott Dome, Left 
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Medlicott Dome Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.85618, -119.42388 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,659
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
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  • Description 

    Perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

    Getting There 

    For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 10.5 miles from here

    30 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',9],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Medlicott Dome

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Medlicott Dome:
    Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    The Yawn   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Ciebola   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Loco Yokel   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    15 Minutes of Fame   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Big Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Bachar-Yerian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Medlicott Dome

    Featured Route For Medlicott Dome
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brian leading the grungy approach pitch to Super C...

    Super Chicken 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Left
    P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goes straight up. Trends right, then up a thin crack...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

    Photos of Medlicott Dome Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Rock Climbing Photo: A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    Rock Climbing Photo: summit of Medlicott Dome
    summit of Medlicott Dome
    Rock Climbing Photo: That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    Rock Climbing Photo: That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott Dome.
    Medlicott Dome.

    Comments on Medlicott Dome Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Barnes
    Jun 10, 2012
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.

    nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...

    Here's the sign at the parking area:

    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
    Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
    By BCramer
    From: Prescott
    Sep 3, 2014
    For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

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