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Medlicott Dome

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Medlicott Dome, Center 
Medlicott Dome, Left 
Medlicott Dome, Right 
Sticks and Stones 

Medlicott Dome  


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Location: 37.85618, -119.42388 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 75,105
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
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2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

Getting There 

Drive to Tuolumne, park, turn south, hike. See Reed & Falkenstein's guide.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.5 miles from here

26 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome:
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Medlicott Dome, Center
Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Medlicott Dome, Center
The Yawn   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Left
Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Medlicott Dome, Center
Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Medlicott Dome, Left
Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Center
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Ciebola   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Medlicott Dome, Right
15 Minutes of Fame   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Big Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Medlicott Dome, Left
Bachar-Yerian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   Medlicott Dome, Left
Browse More Classics in Medlicott Dome

Featured Route For Medlicott Dome
Middle/bottom of Deflector (not including approach...

Deflector 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Right
NOTE: the approach pitches are in the Medlicott raptor closure area so check ahead of time if this climb is closed!Fun, varied, and a bit heads-up route that climbs the face left of Chartres. This is not R by old-school ratings, but it's probably too runout in some cruxy spots for a PG13. With wandering approach pitches and some route-finding, this route will take longer than many similar length routes. Deflector shares short crack sections of Chartres, and if you want to top out on Medlicott Do...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Medlicott Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
summit of Medlicott Dome
summit of Medlicott Dome
That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian

Comments on Medlicott Dome Add Comment
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By Greg Barnes
Jun 10, 2012
Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.

nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...

Here's the sign at the parking area:

Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12