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Medlicott Dome

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Medlicott Dome, Center 
Medlicott Dome, Left 
Medlicott Dome, Right 
Sticks and Stones 

Medlicott Dome  


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Location: 37.85618, -119.42388 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 85,257
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
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  • Description 

    Perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

    Getting There 

    Drive to Tuolumne, park, turn south, hike. See Reed & Falkenstein's guide.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 10.5 miles from here

    26 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome:
    Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    The Yawn   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Ciebola   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    15 Minutes of Fame   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Big Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Bachar-Yerian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Browse More Classics in Medlicott Dome

    Featured Route For Medlicott Dome
    Shipoopi! Topo

    Shipoopi! 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Right
    This is a great route that offers awesome, well-bolted knob climbing, some fun roof-pulling, and a great view of the Bachar-Yerian. All anchors are bolted.P1: 5.11aStart in the plant filled dihedral and climb out right following the blocky dike band (first bolt in the middle) until reaching the small the roof. Pull the roof where there is an obvious jug/point and a possible fixed nut. Continue up and right on some slabby face knobs to the anchor. (4 Bolts, Smallish gear below roof)P2: 5.11dThis ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

    Photos of Medlicott Dome Slideshow Add Photo
    Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    summit of Medlicott Dome
    summit of Medlicott Dome
    That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian

    Comments on Medlicott Dome Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Barnes
    Jun 10, 2012
    Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.

    nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...

    Here's the sign at the parking area:

    Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
    Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
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