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DescriptionThis area has some excellent face climbs that are predominantly well protected, i.e. sport climbing. It stays in the shade for a pretty long time in the morning and can actually be quite chilly up there. Getting ThereTake the trail as described in Falkenstein's guidebook. Park about 5 miles west of the store. Make sure you don't park in the Galen's Crack area--there is a better pullout/trail a little ways further. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome, Right:
Ciebola 5.10b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet
15 Minutes of Fame 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Bachar-Yerian 5.11c X Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For Medlicott Dome, Right
Ciebola 5.10b PG13 CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Right
Ciebola has two excellent, but very different pitches.Pitch 1 follows a thin crack past a pin and a bolt. Good thin cams/stoppers here. I think getting to the bolt is the crux of the pitch. Face traverse left around the roof 5.9+ and easy face leads past 2 bolts on a knobby face. Run it out on stimulating climbing 20 feet to the bolted belay, exciting 5.9+ here. 25 meters.Pitch 2 head out right and up a ways on easy climbing to the first bolt. Up and right a ways again on exciting 5.9+ cli...[more] Browse More Classics in CA |