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Medlicott Dome East End

Select Route:
Donuts TR 
Excellent Smithers S 
Goldmember T 
Lighter Side, The S 
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 
Scorpion T 
Shagadelic T 
Super Chicken T 
Wailing Wall T 
Yawn, The T 

Medlicott Dome East End 

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Elevation: 8,000'
Page Views: 19,703
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006
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A super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics.

Getting There 

From the huge parking area across from low profile Dome, walk through the bog in to the woods till you hit a trail. Take this to the east (left) keeping an eye out for trail/cairn on the right after 1/4 mile. Walk this steep trail up hill to the wall.
Descent: walk off SW and check out the top of this really cool dome. Be very careful not to step on any of the plants who make there hard fought homes on the top.

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome East End:
Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
The Yawn   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   
Browse More Classics in Medlicott Dome East End

Featured Route For Medlicott Dome East End
Wailing Wall. The route begins at the shaded roof in the bottom left of the photo and trends to the right, pulling the roof crack in the upper right of the photo.  Topo overlay shows the first three pitches as we climbed the route.   <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano

Wailing Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome East End
Wailing Wall ascends the obvious and beautiful golden buttress at the left side of Medlicott Dome (this buttress forms the corner of The Yawn). The first pitch is a bit notorious as well -- it tackles the massive roof just left of the Yawn. But the upper pitches are excellent and not to be missed!P1: Climb the roof. Crazy, unlikely stemming! Belay at a bolted anchor. 5.11d, 90'.P2: Head up a steep crack in the corner. Eventually the angle eases off as do the difficulties. Stretch the ro...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Medlicott Dome East End Add Comment
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By pkemp
Aug 7, 2008

I am wondering what the climb to the left of Super Chicken is called? (100' dihedral/crack, with 3 bolts, ~5.10)
Thanks for any info.

By Rob Dillon
Aug 19, 2008

That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken.