Medlicott Dome, Left Rock Climbing
A super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics.
Drive 5.1 miles west from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?).
Hike a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turn right here and in about 100 yards come to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn.
From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.
Descent: Walk off southwest and check out the top of this really cool dome. Be very careful not to step on any of the plants who make there hard fought homes on the top.
Weather station 10.6 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Medlicott Dome, Left
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Medlicott Dome, Left
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Medlicott Dome, Left:
The Yawn 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Loco Yokel 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Scorpion 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Wailing Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 700'
Featured Route For Medlicott Dome, Left
Loco Yokel 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CA
: Yosemite National Park
: ... : Medlicott Dome, Left
This two pitch climb is another great modern route by the FA team, sure to be a future classic as it cleans up with more attention.Pitch 1: Wander up about 40 feet of easy blocky terrain and fishish with 80 feet of sustained, excellent liebacking right up to the bolted belay. 5.10d ~120 feet.Pitch 2: Crux face past two bolts near the belay leads to super fun, large golden knobs and five more bolts to another bolted belay. 5.10b ~120 feet.Rap the route a single 60 meter rappel to the ground w...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Aug 7, 2008
I am wondering what the climb to the left of Super Chicken is called? (100' dihedral/crack, with 3 bolts, ~5.10)
Thanks for any info.
By Rob Dillon
Aug 19, 2008
That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken.