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Medlicott Dome, Left

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lighter Side, The S 
Loco Yokel T 
Scorpion T 
Super Chicken T 
Wailing Wall T 
Yawn, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Medlicott Dome, Left  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 37.86017, -119.42857 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,253
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006
Forecast:
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Jose leading the "handcrack in a corner that climb...

2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics.

Getting There 

Drive 5.1 miles west from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?).

Hike a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turn right here and in about 100 yards come to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn.

From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

Descent: Walk off southwest and check out the top of this really cool dome. Be very careful not to step on any of the plants who make there hard fought homes on the top.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.6 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome, Left:
The Yawn   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   
Browse More Classics in Medlicott Dome, Left

Featured Route For Medlicott Dome, Left
Brian leading the grungy approach pitch to Super Chicken.  The Super hands pitch is above him.

Super Chicken 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Left
P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goes straight up. Trends right, then up a thin crack...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Medlicott Dome, Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By pkemp
Aug 7, 2008
I am wondering what the climb to the left of Super Chicken is called? (100' dihedral/crack, with 3 bolts, ~5.10)
Thanks for any info.
By Rob Dillon
Aug 19, 2008
That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken.
By BCramer
From: Prescott
Sep 3, 2014
For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.