Medlicott Dome, Left Rock Climbing
A super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics.
Drive 5.1 miles west from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?).
Hike a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turn right here and in about 100 yards come to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn.
From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.
Descent: Walk off southwest and check out the top of this really cool dome. Be very careful not to step on any of the plants who make there hard fought homes on the top.
Weather station 10.6 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Medlicott Dome, Left
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Medlicott Dome, Left
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Medlicott Dome, Left:
The Yawn 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Loco Yokel 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Scorpion 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Wailing Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 700'
Featured Route For Medlicott Dome, Left
Super Chicken 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA
: Yosemite National Park
: ... : Medlicott Dome, Left
P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goes straight up. Trends right, then up a thin crack...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Aug 7, 2008
I am wondering what the climb to the left of Super Chicken is called? (100' dihedral/crack, with 3 bolts, ~5.10)
Thanks for any info.
By Rob Dillon
Aug 19, 2008
That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken.