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Medicine Wall

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Medicine Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 960'
Page Views: 17,895
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: mattm on May 20, 2011
Forecast:
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Clear
98° | 77°
Partly Cloudy
98° | 75°
Clear
101° | 75°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
97° | 73°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
90° | 71°
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Description 

Limestone Cliffs up to ~25m. The rock varies from excellent blue rock to blocky choss. Be cautious pulling on anything that seems loose, it probably is.

North facing so it does get SOME shade in the summer but the sun sneaks in when it's high in the sky. It can be COLD in the winter but the sun is easy to walk to to warm up. Each of the areas are really all part of one semicontinuous cliff band. Climbers would refer to different distinct areas as a "wall" and the practice stuck. Think of each "wall" area in the Euro sense of sectors on a larger wall.

Star Ratings are based on climbs ONLY at Med Wall. Don't think for a second that a 4 star route here will rank up there with a 4 Star route in the Valley or Smith Rock.


Getting There 

THIS AREA IS CURRENTLY CLOSED. ACCESS IS BEING WORKED ON. THIS WILL BE UPDATED WHEN THINGS CHANGE


37 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',8],['5.9',4],['5.10',12],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medicine Wall:
Same Day Surgery   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Malpractice Wall
Bermuda Triangles   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 70'   Old Testament Wall
Defective Implant   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Malpractice Wall
Texas Caterpillar   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   New Testament Wall
Rock-Ectomy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 80'   Malpractice Wall
Sleep Deprivation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Old Testament Wall
Two Cracked Teeth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Buda Belly Wall
Unnecessary Procedure   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Malpractice Wall
Crossover   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Old Testament Wall
Adventures in Purulent Discharge   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   New Testament Wall
Honeycomb   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Metro Wall
Cute without the E   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   New Testament Wall
Here's to Swimming With Bow Legged Women   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   New Testament Wall
Browse More Classics in Medicine Wall

Featured Route For Medicine Wall
2 cracked teeth - bolted and now clean!

Two Cracked Teeth 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  TX : Medicine Wall : Buda Belly Wall
More exploration and cleaning yields good returns!Cracked Teeth is on the left side of Buda Belly wall proper, just left of Breezy. Climb up some easy ledges to the base of a small, shallow corner. Clip the first bolt on the right face and then make fun moves, pulling on the crack and pockets on the face to a stance. Clip the 2nd bolt and climb easy terrain up the "plates" past a 3rd bolt, heading to the base of the broken looking crack and corner looming above. From the ledge, clip the 4th ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Comments on Medicine Wall Add Comment
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By mattm
From: TX
May 20, 2011

There's a small but growing group of climbers in SA. Find us on Facebook - San Antonio Rock Climbers

By engineer1984
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 27, 2012

Is this area still open for climbing?