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Thunderbird Wall
Routes Sorted
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Bird of Prey S 
Deer Lick T 
Fawnskin S 
High Plains Drifter T 
Hot Wing S 
Last Call For Alcohol T 
Medicine Man S 
Nervous Twitch S 
Thunderbird S 
Thunderstruck S 

Medicine Man 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: (TR) Loren Scott & Chris Miller, 7/97, FL: Chris Miller & Dave Masuo, 7/97
Page Views: 1,744
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Nearing the crux of Medicine Man (5.7), Holcomb Va...

Description 

Up the vertical face left of Nervous Twitch is this fun and popular moderate. Large features down low lead to the crux, a short somewhat steeper sequence on smaller holds; the route finishes with a mantle onto a ledge with anchors.

Not as long or continuous in nature as some of the other routes of the grade here, but still a fun climb.


Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Thunderbird)



Photos of Medicine Man Slideshow Add Photo
My first sport lead.  August 2011.  And, yes, I put a finger into the bolt hanger at the top--momentarily!  No-no.
My first sport lead. August 2011. And, yes, I pu...
Mid-crux on Medicine Man (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Mid-crux on Medicine Man (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pin...
Jodee on the thin upper moves of Medicine Man.
Jodee on the thin upper moves of Medicine Man.
Medicine Man panorama with Ben leading.
Medicine Man panorama with Ben leading.
Climber on Medicine Man
BETA PHOTO: Climber on Medicine Man
Sara Susca on Medicine Man.
Sara Susca on Medicine Man.
Chris Owen leading, photo by Manila Angileri.
Chris Owen leading, photo by Manila Angileri.
Ben having fun on this steep intro to Thunderbird Wall.
Ben having fun on this steep intro to Thunderbird ...
Comments on Medicine Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007

Perhaps a heady lead for the grade but great moves. This is a fun route that should not be overlooked, whether looking for a warm-up or somewhere to TR for your newbie friends.

By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with Bill - a little on the heady side for 5.7. May not be the best first lead for the rookie leader, but it's something that shouldn't be overlooked.

The moves may potentially be reachy for those of shorter stature.

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

thought this one to be harder than 5.7

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2008

I'm wondering if this one has uprated over the years. Maybe some holds have gone missing? Seems it was always a cruiser, now it feels much harder. Maybe I'm just getting old but my friends and I all thought Medicine Man to be harder than Bird of Prey.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Seems like a stiff lead at 5.7, steep with some trickiness, and harder than Shoot at Will I therefore give it 5.8.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Jul 26, 2010

Might be 5.8 if a lot of 5.7 moves qualifies a route as 5.8. Sustained, but easy enough decipher the moves that it's probably not 5.8.

By edehaven
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agreed with the rest, a bit heady. For a first time leader the start to the first bolt might be a bit intimidating. Fun route none the less but I put it at a 5.8 as well

By J. Stan
Oct 3, 2012

I was climbing this route about a week ago and found the higher of the two anchor bolts (those shared by the Thunderbird route) was loose. The hanger is not loose on the bolt, rather the body of the bolt is lose in the bolt hole. When weighted the main body of the bolt has some play. Just a warning to those climbing this route. The bolt should probably be replaced.

By Clif Clap
Jul 25, 2014

Heady start to be sure if this is one's grade. Several moves off the deck before the first bolt and the feet are not small but they are not massive and the fall could be serious if blown.

A fun line that is not as obvious as it looks.