Medicine Man 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | (TR) Loren Scott & Chris Miller, 7/97, FL: Chris Miller & Dave Masuo, 7/97 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jul 1, 2006 |
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Nearing the crux of Medicine Man (5.7), Holcomb Va...
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Description Up the vertical face left of Nervous Twitch is this fun and popular moderate. Large features down low lead to the crux, a short somewhat steeper sequence on smaller holds; the route finishes with a mantle onto a ledge with anchors.
Not as long or continuous in nature as some of the other routes of the grade here, but still a fun climb.
Protection 4 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Thunderbird)
BETA PHOTO: Climber on Medicine Man
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Mid-crux on Medicine Man (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pin...
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Jodee on the thin upper moves of Medicine Man.
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My first sport lead. August 2011. And, yes, I pu...
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Chris Owen leading, photo by Manila Angileri.
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Sara Susca on Medicine Man.
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007
| Perhaps a heady lead for the grade but great moves. This is a fun route that should not be overlooked, whether looking for a warm-up or somewhere to TR for your newbie friends. |
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.7+
| I agree with Bill - a little on the heady side for 5.7. May not be the best first lead for the rookie leader, but it's something that shouldn't be overlooked.
The moves may potentially be reachy for those of shorter stature. |
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.8+
| thought this one to be harder than 5.7 |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2008
| I'm wondering if this one has uprated over the years. Maybe some holds have gone missing? Seems it was always a cruiser, now it feels much harder. Maybe I'm just getting old but my friends and I all thought Medicine Man to be harder than Bird of Prey. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Seems like a stiff lead at 5.7, steep with some trickiness, and harder than Shoot at Will I therefore give it 5.8. |
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jul 26, 2010
| Might be 5.8 if a lot of 5.7 moves qualifies a route as 5.8. Sustained, but easy enough decipher the moves that it's probably not 5.8. |
By edehaven
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Agreed with the rest, a bit heady. For a first time leader the start to the first bolt might be a bit intimidating. Fun route none the less but I put it at a 5.8 as well |
By J. Stan
Oct 3, 2012
| I was climbing this route about a week ago and found the higher of the two anchor bolts (those shared by the Thunderbird route) was loose. The hanger is not loose on the bolt, rather the body of the bolt is lose in the bolt hole. When weighted the main body of the bolt has some play. Just a warning to those climbing this route. The bolt should probably be replaced. |
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