Medicine Man 

You're looking at Medicine Man, 5.12b, on the south face of the spire.

Pitch 1 - 5.9/10 kinda sporty with some face holds down low. belay on nice ledge with existing anchor. nice warm up pitch (~90 ft) possibly tricky gear placement down low gear- purple cam to a yellow cam

Pitch 2 - 5.11+ (maybe) thin layback corner straight up, chimney moves and out left side of roof to a beautiful lieback finish. great pitch! (~90 ft) gear- purple to yellow cam probably two of each

Pitch 3 - 5.12b thin hands straight up in a perfect zig zagging thin hands splitter rest comes at mid height then more thin hands to a small roof and final move to belay, awesome! (~90 ft) gear- about 8 red cams and 1 or 2 yellow, if you don't use them all on the pitch you can back up the pin with the extras (reds).

Pitch 4 - 5.9 weird but good, up and left at roof, follow awkward moves to the summit, good pitch for the thinker. belay on summit from giant chain rap anchors. two ~90 ft raps to base of fast draw. Gear- bring what you have (not the 8 red cams) maybe a finger-size piece or two up to yellow cam

• *Note it is possible to set up a traverse from the top of Sentinel Spire to the cliff line (~40 ft), just climb Fast Draw after rapping in from there and proceed). I didn't use it to get off but my partner has seen it done.

Bolts have been replaced. Everything is bomber. Especially on pitch two, a bolt was added around the corner. Great Route! Too much fixed gear. 3 stuck cams. Anyone have a hacksaw? 5 #1 Camalot and 2-3 #2's for pitch 3.

One of the best. There is no longer fixed gear on the route. Belays all solid. I found the last roof as hard as the second. We used 4 green, 5 red, two yellow, 2 blue Camalot.

I think pitch 2 is actually harder than pitch 3.

I updated the gear list on this after climbing it again recently. Not sure how we ended up using (or thinking we used) so much gear the first time. It was nice to see someone had replaced those old bolts and pins and the anchors. Have fun.

There was no fixed gear on this route as of October 2009. I recall placing maybe 6 #1 Camalots on the crux and a #2. I also found it hard to find a worthwhile "kneebar" before the crux. Pretty soft for .12b, more like 11+. Great tower route nonetheless!

70m rope will get you down in 2 raps.
Stellar climbing the whole way. As for pitch 4, sounds like a lot of people traverse left under the roof, but pullin' the roof straight on is stellar, maybe 10+ish?
Great route just as fun as Primrose.

Great tower route. I would call pitch 2 and pitch 5 11- and the crux pitch 11+. On the crux pitch about half way up the pitch, you can protect with a #0.75 Camalot and a yellow Mastercam in horizontals. This allows you to save your #1 cams.

Just to add some beta, there are 2 bolts on the second pitch to avoid placing gear in the death block. We belayed on two drilled pins after the chimney/death block at a hanging stance, but the pins are in great shape. I recommend 5-6 #0.75 cams for this second pitch. The last pitch is a little sandy and takes a lot of hand-size pieces.

Great tower and the jug out is recommended but a hell of a work out after climbing the tower.

The best The Monument has to offer.

One of the best routes in the Monument. The first pitch goes better than it looks. It is about 9/10a. You can protect start with some 0.4s and 0.5s. It is more bouldery at the start and then ends in a nice crack with anchors. The second pitch (we broke it up in two). I used about 5 or 6 0.75s and a microcam after the flake in the roof. It is about 10+ or 11 depending on where you belay. The crux is going around the flake. There is a belay at two pins, and it is a rather uncomfortable hanging belay. There is a short pitch to get to the next anchor for the start of the crux pitch. The crux pitch is very girl hand friendly. Mostly #1s (6 or 7 - depends on comfort level) with a #2 and #3 thrown in for good measure. The crux is getting over the roof. While I would love to feel the a 5.12 could be so doable, it is probably more of an 11. If #1s are a terrible size, then it could be harder. The last pitch is typical Monument soft, flaky rock with some awkwardness thrown in. Great route and a definite repeat! Our rack was one or two microcams, single set of nuts, 0.3 and 0.4, 2 0.5s, 5 or 6 0.75s, 6 or 7 #1s, 2 #2s, and 2 #3s. Depending on comfort, you could remove some 0.75s and #1s.

Very beautiful route, and I think it's one of the best in the Monument.

The crux pitch is a classic example of where individual climber hand size is going to push the grade one way or another. It will be much harder for folks with larger hands and would be much, much, easier for thinner hands. The difficulty factor really changes depending on how your hands fit the crack.

Amazing. One of the best towers I've climbed. Couldn't get the knee bar and didn't do one finger lock on the crux. Pulled through the roof on the last pitch, and it was super fun but a little spicy due to the poor rock quality above the roof.