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Med Dose Madness 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,234
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Left hand is what I believe to be the crux side-pu...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I've been wondering about this route but hadn't gotten around to it yet. Just did it today and though it was a bit wet it was sharp enough to keep me on. Overall i thought it was a nice addition but i did feel that it was a bit sketchy going to the chains. It looked like if you blew one of the last moves you could hit the ledge below (like on Bonehead to the left). Thats why I put PG13, post your opinions if you disagree.

Climb the mossy slab start as for beginners/ Bonehead Roof. Head straight up the face on sharp holds following stainless steel eyebolts. The crux happens low and is painful on the fingers but there are lots of foot options to make the holds work. At about the 4th bolt the climbing eases up and you will soon be on a large ledge. Head up and right through a notch clipping your last bolt and step awkwardly to the right to another nice ledge. I would have liked another bolt here. Make a couple moves to the quick clips and say hurray!

Location 

right of Bonehead Roof 5.10c. Look for stainless steel eyebolts.

Protection 

7 bolts to quick clips. There is a spot for a blue Alien to help protect the exit moves if you wish.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 5, 2014
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Aug 29, 2008

I think this is really fun route. The bottom is crimpy and sharp(i prefer sharp holds) and i'd agree the top is a bit sketch but not terrible.. i thought bonehead's roof was worse.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Dec 20, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

I believe this route is more in the .9, possibly 9+ range. But the the last move before clipping the chains is kind of hard with an intimidating fall potential. Take your time and figure out how to use the good holds and you should be fine.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree that the top felt sketchy and the bottom was sharp but with that said I think it is a fun route, that is certainly in the 5.10 a or b range, pumpy bottom leads to a fun top.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Apr 22, 2009

I did this again a few weekends ago and didn't find the top that sketchy at all.

I thought the bottom has harder crimp moves than Lies and propaganda. Then you get the same big ledge to rest up and take on the top roof. It's easier than Cold Turkey.. but harder than Lies
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 22, 2010

I did this earlier today and agree with Jake's comparison to lies and cold turkey. I had done Bonehead Roof minutes before and found the top not to be sketchy at all.
By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
May 22, 2010

The top is a little sketchy, and I do think if you blow the exit moves you will hit the big ledge below. I use a small (blue) alien to protect the exit move.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 7, 2010

just to be clear, i didnt mean that i was sketched on the top out... what i was pointing out was the fact that you would hit the ledge if you did fall... i was more thinking about the climber that multi hung the first half of the route, is pumped out of his or her mind and might not have a cool head... just saysin be careful out there kids...
By S. Neoh
Jul 7, 2010

I agree with Lee.
The end of this route definitely kept my attention (even not being pumped out) until I dropped the rope into the anchors.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 6, 2012

Nice beta on the blue alien, maybe that should be thrown into the the description as it might take a way the pg-13 factor. I just climbed it yesterday, and ended up throwing a draw on the quick clip before clipping to reduce the amount of rope I had to pull out.

Not having read this page, I definitely had the thought, "Why isn't there another bolt to protect decking below the roof?" Oh well...



PS: the guidebook mentions that Jon Barker was a "tall man", so the vertically challenged get a little extra thrill!! And where did he get those funny shaped bolts?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The is currently a large bird nest on the final ledge of this climb.
By Jacob24042
Jun 17, 2013

Concerning the PG13 rating, unlike many climbs at Rumney, this climb is not a "mini top rope." It may seem a bit scary but its refreshing to make bold lead (not a bolt ladder). When the climbing is difficult, you have bolts; when the climbing is easy, you have to run it out to the next bolt. If you get scared, bring some small cams.
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Oct 5, 2014

I too question the lack of protection on the finish of this route. Though not as difficult or technical as the opening moves on the climb, the finishing moves to the chains are not trivial and a fall there would IMHO be pretty devastating as you would undoubtedly hit the slab below. One more prior to launching for the clips would be nice...but it is what it is.

Blue alien would have come in handy!! ;)