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Huntington Ravine
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Central Gully 
Central Gully - Rock Climb T 
Damnation Gully 
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Henderson Ridge T 
Mechanics' Route T 
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Odell's Gully 
Pinnacle Direct (Rock Climb) T 
Pinnacle Gully 
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Yale Gully 
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Mechanics' Route 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 220', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Webster, 8/2/1987
Season: Summer or Early Fall
Page Views: 3,326
Submitted By: cjdrover on Nov 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: P1 Beta Photo Jerry Handren's new guide describes...


Rock quality is good for Huntington Ravine... though that isn't saying much. Expect some lichen and loose rock here and there.

1) Step over Central Gully and get established in the often wet corner (5.7 R). Continue up the corner to a large vegetated ledge and belay from a slung feature and some fixed nuts (small gear backs it up). 5.9, 100 feet.

2) Move up the slabby corner from the belay (extend your gear). Stem the corner as high as you can, place gear above your head, and fire the crux lieback. After an awkward move to mantle the V-shaped groove, make a few moves up to your left and belay from an old bolt and two pins. 5.10b, 50 feet.

3) Climb 5.9 offwidth directly above the belay until the crack narrows. Move up onto the narrow ledge on your right, then lieback and jam the corner crack (narrow fists to narrow hands) up and over the bulge. The regular finish traverses left to a ledge, then up and over easy terrain. Belay from a slung pinch between two boulders. 5.10a, 65 feet.


Head up the Huntington Ravine Trail to where it turns right and goes up the slabs. Continue up the gully, scrambling up slabs just to the right of the water. Look for a good sized ledge with a single old bolt. Belay from here - pitch one begins in the corner 5 feet farther up the gully.


A set of nuts and a single set of cams.

--- 60 meter rope OR twin 50 meter ropes are MANDATORY ---
(29 meter rap from first belay to ground)

Bring extra webbing and rap rings, just in case. A hammer and some pins in your pack isn't a terrible idea either, if you know what to do with them. The second anchor kinda sucks.

Photos of Mechanics' Route Slideshow Add Photo
The route. Helon is rapping from the first belay -...
BETA PHOTO: The route. Helon is rapping from the first belay -...
The two cruxes on Mechanics' Route, 10b for the lo...
BETA PHOTO: The two cruxes on Mechanics' Route, 10b for the lo...

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By S. Neoh
Nov 12, 2009

We did this climb years ago as a party of three with two 60m half-ropes. We topped out but could not find the third and last set of anchors. Luckily, we had a very long sling so we slung a sizable piece of rock and also left a well-placed nut behind as the anchor. The first rap took us down to the second set of anchors (did not look all that good even back then). Then we rapped the rest of the way in one go, with a meter or two of rope to spare.

There is certainly some adventure to this climb.
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Aug 14, 2010

did it today,best route on washington. fun climbiing in a great setting.
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 30, 2010

Doubles of hand sized cams allowed me to sew up Pitch 3, but you don't need them. I'm not sure why the book lists this as Grade III - perhaps it factors in the approach and setting. As with all climbs up here, treat all handholds, footholds, trees, and fixed gear with extreme suspicion. Be sure all the ice is already down if trying this route in the spring.
By Nick L
Oct 2, 2011

As of late July 2011, the sling and nut anchor at top of P3 was getting rather worn and faded. Also the P2 anchor would not be great to rap off unless backed up. Instead we scrambled off, which made for a memorable gardening experience. especially while wearing shorts... Maybe only one loose block just before V-groove.

Good route - wish it was 3 x longer!
By S. Neoh
Oct 2, 2011

Could they the same sling and nut we left on top of P3? Amazing if so! If the same, that sling is more than 10 years old and had spent the last 7 or 8 years out in the open; definitely not to be trusted.
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 21, 2011

I remember rapping off a slung boulder at the top of P3 in 2010 - that we slung. Among the sketchier raps I've done. I also remember slotting myself into the offwidth at the belay on P2 and belaying my partner off the hip for fear of weighting the, uh, "anchor". Of course, when snow started 15 minutes later we had to rap off of it anyways... needless to say, it held.
By CWood
From: SLC, UT
Jul 23, 2012

We were able to reach the ground in one double-rope rappel (60m) from a rap anchor (slung pinch described above) at the end of the 3rd pitch. Rope stretch was needed to get to the bottom, and minor variation in rope length could potentially make this unworkable. Total rappel length was likely 215-220 feet. Fortunately, it should be possible to see whether the ropes reach or not without passing the first ledge/anchor, but I strongly recommend tying knots in the ends of your ropes.
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