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Mechanic's Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dick Jones & Glen Dawson, October 1937
Page Views: 5,946
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2006

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Second pitch, the crux runout section. With posit...

Description 

This shares the first bit of the Open Book and then traverses right to easier ground. The traverse move to gain the right crack is a bit interesting. Then after setting an anchor, the 2nd pitch asends a line of bulges and chickenheads without much gear. The third pitch traverses and ends in a 4th class grove with a fun topout on HUGE holds!

Protection 

Standard rack. Expect a bit of excitment on the second pitch. Walk to the top of Taquitz and go down and right for the walk off.


Photos of Mechanic's Route Slideshow Add Photo
The huge dihedral on the left is Open Book, the right leaning layback crack up above is Zig Zag, the juggy chimney and face is Mechanic's Route, and the right smooth dihedral is The Green Arch.
BETA PHOTO: The huge dihedral on the left is Open Book, the ri...
Jascha on the easy traverse before P3
Jascha on the easy traverse before P3
Kia at the top of the first pitch of Mechanic's Route.  Super jugtastic chimney!
Kia at the top of the first pitch of Mechanic's Ro...
Me and Kia on the Mechanics route
Me and Kia on the Mechanics route
Sept 2006. The boulder-y start of Mechanic's/Open book.
Sept 2006. The boulder-y start of Mechanic's/Open ...
Jascha leading the final chimney pitch of Mechanic's Route
Jascha leading the final chimney pitch of Mechanic...

Comments on Mechanic's Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 23, 2014
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 12, 2006

Dick Jones' lead of this in tennis shoes and a rope tied round his waist certainly ranks up there.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007

The R section of the second pitch really isn't too bad. The holds are so bomb you hardly think about it. It was a blast to lead! Good pro below and above the runout.

I could not find the bolted anchor atop P2 so I just sunk some gear near the end of the crack. From there, my friend Chris led up and left along a crack that joins with P3 of the Open Book.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Apr 30, 2007

We did this in 2 pitches, with the second pitch being a full 205 feet (i.e. your belayer might want to be prepared to climb around 5 feet).

This was finishing up and left ala Open Book.

With 2 ropes you can rap back down (2 raps), saving yourself the walkoff, and touching you down near your packs.
By saltlick
From: gym
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The "R" rating for this route doesn't really apply anymore; maybe if there weren't a bolt protecting the crux traverse on p1, or if there weren't sling-able heads on the face-climbing section of p2... All around a very enjoyable route with a cool mix of climbing! Definitely spicy off the ground, though...
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Oct 19, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Did the first pitch today and bailed. Belayed up higher just below the fixed piton where the runout starts to the right. Great gear, terrible place to belay.
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

OK, went back and finished it today.

The second and third pitches can, in fact, be linked with a 60 meter rope if you belay about 10 to 15 feet below the piton/run out start and finish at the anchor chains atop Open Book. We had about 5 feet of extra rope.

BTW, my partner set a piece with an extra long runner about 5 feet above the fixed piton (I think this is the Zig Zag crack) to help mitigate the run out. It didn't make the run out any less scary but... another piece in the chain.

I originally rated this a 9 but in retrospect it truly is an 8--the holds are there, for the most part, but the run out is a real attention-getter and worthy of respect.

So far, my favorite climb and proudest lead. I highly recommend it.
By Tradoholic
Jan 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

A great climb. The traverse in the first pitch is definitely the physical/mental crux. Biffing it will send you flying into the dihedral. The "R" on the second pitch is most certainly run out but just technical 5.6 climbing. No buckets and no gear for a good 30ft so best have your lead hat on.
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
May 24, 2013

One can do a direct start about 10- 15 right of the Book. You can place a long runner around a bump, and climb straight up. Not to add confusion to this fine climb, but this was the original 1938 start.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 21, 2013

FA: October 1937.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Sep 24, 2013

Engaging climbing, esp after clipping pin and across the exhilarating P1 traverse, soon rewarded with nice juggy crack up to anchor ledge. Exciting P2 out onto knobby face. Not all the knobby bulges as positive as one might hope, hahaha. As for the one most slingable knob, a slipknot with thin dyneema cinched barely positively in place. Sure, slingable, but to actually stay put catching a sizable fall, prob fairly low chance of that. With modern gear, another marginal pro possible nearby. Better to just not fall.

Afterward, read about some clipping a bolt protecting the P1 traverse, here on MP and elsewhere, circa 2011. Didn't notice one, aside from the bolt along the much lower traverse of Zig Zag.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

The first pitch is stout for 5.8. I think the moves off the deck alone are somewhat committing for a 5.8 grade. The crux of the entire route for me, and perhaps I traversed too low, was moving up the initial 10 ft or so after finishing the traverse and climbing up to where the crack gets a bit knobbier and wider. Pretty thin climbing there for a bit. That being said I thought the first pitch was awesome.

I echo what was said earlier about the R pitch above, it's not bad and the hardest moves are the first few, relatively close to your gear.

A good 5.8 for the confident 5.9/stronger climber.