Mechanic's Route 5.8 R
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Dick Jones & Glen Dawson, October 1937 |
| Submitted By: | Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2006 |
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Second pitch, the crux runout section. With posit...
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Description This shares the first bit of the Open Book and then traverses right to easier ground. The traverse move to gain the right crack is a bit interesting. Then after setting an anchor, the 2nd pitch asends a line of bulges and chickenheads without much gear. The third pitch traverses and ends in a 4th class grove with a fun topout on HUGE holds!
Protection Standard rack. Expect a bit of excitment on the second pitch. Walk to the top of Taquitz and go down and right for the walk off.
BETA PHOTO: The huge dihedral on the left is Open Book, the ri...
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Kia at the top of the first pitch of Mechanic's Ro...
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Sept 2006. The boulder-y start of Mechanic's/Open ...
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Me and Kia on the Mechanics route
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Jascha on the easy traverse before P3
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Jascha leading the final chimney pitch of Mechanic...
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| Comments on Mechanic's Route |
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 12, 2006
| Dick Jones' lead of this in tennis shoes and a rope tied round his waist certainly ranks up there. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007
| The R section of the second pitch really isn't too bad. The holds are so bomb you hardly think about it. It was a blast to lead! Good pro below and above the runout.
I could not find the bolted anchor atop P2 so I just sunk some gear near the end of the crack. From there, my friend Chris led up and left along a crack that joins with P3 of the Open Book. |
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Apr 30, 2007
| We did this in 2 pitches, with the second pitch being a full 205 feet (i.e. your belayer might want to be prepared to climb around 5 feet).
This was finishing up and left ala Open Book.
With 2 ropes you can rap back down (2 raps), saving yourself the walkoff, and touching you down near your packs. |
By saltlick
From: the bedroom
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 PG13
| The "R" rating for this route doesn't really apply anymore; maybe if there weren't a bolt protecting the crux traverse on p1, or if there weren't sling-able heads on the face-climbing section of p2... All around a very enjoyable route with a cool mix of climbing! Definitely spicy off the ground, though... |
By Jim Dover
From: Temecula, Ca
Oct 19, 2011
rating: 5.8 R
| Did the first pitch today and bailed. Belayed up higher just below the fixed piton where the runout starts to the right. Great gear, terrible place to belay. |
By Jim Dover
From: Temecula, Ca
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.8 R
| OK, went back and finished it today.
The second and third pitches can, in fact, be linked with a 60 meter rope if you belay about 10 to 15 feet below the piton/run out start and finish at the anchor chains atop Open Book. We had about 5 feet of extra rope.
BTW, my partner set a piece with an extra long runner about 5 feet above the fixed piton (I think this is the Zig Zag crack) to help mitigate the run out. It didn't make the run out any less scary but... another piece in the chain.
I originally rated this a 9 but in retrospect it truly is an 8--the holds are there, for the most part, but the run out is a real attention-getter and worthy of respect.
So far, my favorite climb and proudest lead. I highly recommend it. |
By Trad Nanny
Jan 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 R
| A great climb. The traverse in the first pitch is definitely the physical/mental crux. Biffing it will send you flying into the dihedral. The "R" on the second pitch is most certainly run out but just technical 5.6 climbing. No buckets and no gear for a good 30ft so best have your lead hat on. |
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