Scramble up to the ledge (or belay from below) to the obvious splitter crack (one of the Butte's few). Funky moves lead up to a couple thin hand jams which is the crux about 10 feet up. This is quickly followed by a perfect hand crack that slowly widens as the climb progresses. Certainly one of the best climbs at the Butte.
Single set of cams to 4 inches. Nuts and TCU's for anchor.
Descend via Shark Fin Gully or downclimb Heart Route (5.6) if you are so inclined.
Full set of cams from TCU's to 4 inches. Nuts useful down low and for the anchor.
From: Prescott, AZ
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great super classic route, clean jamming, solid rock. Nice to have a large cam in an upper section. smaller nuts and a #2 helium friend for an anchor. came into the shade sometime past noon.