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 ADVANCED
1. Whitney-Gilman Area
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Ambrosia T 
Meatgrinder T 
Whitney Gilman Ridge T 

Meatgrinder 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: P1, Andy Tuthill 1977. P2 & 3, Stoney Middleton, Chris Rowins & Chris Ellms
Page Views: 1,210
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Aug 27, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Meatgrinder

Description 

The first pitch is fun and good if your craging on Cannon with an easy walk off. Continuing up makes for a nice start to the W.G.

P1 5.10+ 110, Once off the ground thin and hard jamming awaits, but is over quickly. Continue up the crack through the bushes to a ledge and belay.
(Here you are just left of the W.G. 5.6 start and can easily scramble off if you don't wish to continue)

P2 5.10+ 70, Climb a short thin left leaning crack around a corner and up a slab belay at the base of a left facing corner.

P3 5.9 120, Head up the corner joining the W.G.

Location 

Approach as for the Whitney G. then head south and down to the bottom of the ridge proper. The start is marked by an obvious thin vertical crack on a clean face. The P3 corner is also visible from the ground.

Protection 

Standard Rack with some small stuff for the thin cracks.


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 30, 2011

Nice climb with short ,well protected cruxes.