Meat ya later
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from near the anchors, just after the...
This route is to the left of Schezuan Cooking, and it requires a bit of scrambling to get to its start.
The climb follows a shallow, left-facing corner that arcs gracefully to the left and morphs into an intimidating roof with anchors just after the lip.
The first crux is leaving the ground to gain the seam (#00 Metolious) and is protected by a bolt. The crack gets better, the corner gets bigger and the rock gets steeper. After several fun moves on perfect hands, the feet disappear and the crack gets wide (4.5/5 Camalot) at the lip of the roof. Hang out at the last hand jams, think about the move, and go for it.
At first the wideness felt desperate and miserable, but once I figured out the beta, the moves at the end seemed like the best ones.
The anchors were old -- a classic array of drilled angles and Bandito bolts caked heavily with tat -- so maybe bring a knife and fresh webbing.
Left of Schezuan Cooking, at the top of a knoll behind a large, detached pillar.
#00 Metolious TCU to a large Camalot, with 2-3 #2 Camalots. The #5 Camalot isn't necessary, but it can definitely provide an extra shot of confidence, as the final crux is committing.
The crack will eat cams if you're not careful. I left a #2 Camalot in as a TR directional, but it walked waaay up there by the time my buddy got to it and there was no chance of getting it out.
BETA PHOTO: Meat Ya Later at the Second Meat Wall, Indian Cree...