Meat Hooks 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Robert Warren |
| Submitted By: | Bryan Gall on Oct 12, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: the Meat Hooks dihedral
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Description A stunning line located between "Right Arm" and "Sinestra", Meat Hooks is one of the most continuous fist corners I've had the pleasure to climb. It is protected by a hell of a lot of #3.5 camalots, #3's are tipped out! Start up through a short off width section (40'), crank through 130' of fists, pull a roof (the only spot #3's work well), and grab the chains. You most definitely need two ropes. A must do wide crack experience!!!
Protection 1-2bd #2's, 4-5bd #3's, 8-10bd #3.5's, 2-3bd #4's, and 1-2bd #4.5's
By Anthony Everhart
Nov 30, 2003
| I wouldn't say this is a fist climb. Burly wide hands for me. I would bring only 1 4.5 and only one 4 camalots. Lots of 3.5 friends and then tight 4 friends. I had 6 size 4 friends and had to backclean a scary lot (had already blew the onsight down low) so get lots of 4's. Good chain anchor, thank you whoever did that, can't be seen from the ground. My 50m trail line barly touched down. True Indian Creek climb!A. Everhart |
By Wayne Harney
Jan 5, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| This climb is a full body belt sander! The flare at the bottom seemed 11ish to me. |
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Hillsboro, OR
Dec 16, 2011
| Who owns 10 BD #3.5s and will you meet me in IC (actually, I have one so you only need to bring nine)? How do BD #4s fit? |
By slim
Dec 16, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| they don't. you can barely get a #4 at one spot about midway up, and possibly 1 up around the roof at the top. you can use a bunch of really tipped out #3's along the way, but it is a lot better to have 3.5s/4friends. when my wife did it she had 9 pieces that size, which worked out about right. |
By AndyBG
Nov 30, 2012
| How about #4 C4's? Close enough to the old BD 3.5's? |
By slim
Nov 30, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| Nope. |
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