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 ADVANCED
The Prudential
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Funko S 
Finland S 
Hard Drive S 
Horned Behavior S 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 
Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
Midget Tricks S 
Nice Land S 
Practice, The S 
Premium, The S 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
Short and sharp S 
Soft Job S 
Soft Machine S 
Stoned Temple Pilot S 
Swedish Girls S 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

Measured Doses 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: keith beccansoll 2003
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 10, 2011

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ehhh... this picture shows which route you should ...

Description 

Don't bother, at least until you have climbed a few hundred other routes at Rumney. It's finer points include an interesting low angle start, exactly 2 cool hard moves and it's very safe (if a little over bolted).
The down sides include gross, wet, dirty, sharp rock and an overwhelmingly inconsistent difficulty.

If you do get on it, look for the funky anchor (bolts not parallel) in the middle of the lower left (filthy) part of Prudential. Climb the pretty interesting low angle start past 4 bolts at which point you will be looking up at a really steep wall about 10 feet high. Side pull Left crimp right and hit the sharp lip. Traverse jugs right to clip the strange anchor.

Location 

In the middle of the lower left wall look for a low angle start to a steep wall bolts heading right to an off kilter anchor.

Protection 

7 bolts to lower off. I clipped 5 and felt very safe.


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