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Shakespeare Cliff
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Measure for Measure? 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: The Lower Gorge is so good
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: Joel Sprenger on Nov 28, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: A not so good picture of Measure for Measure. I wi...
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Description 

The only bolted line on the Shakespeare Cliff. A fun start pulling over the roof gets harder as you climb up. The route starts working the left side of the arete but works both sides as the column narrows at the top. The crux comes at the 2nd to last bolt where blank arete slapping and lousy feet lead to a desperate clipping hold. Looking for others input so we can get this route information more accurate


Location 

I believe this is the only bolted route on the Shakespeare Cliff. Chalk on both sides of the arete make this climb look hard.


Protection 

Bolts the whole way up. Shares anchors with Much to Do about Nothing.



Photos of Measure for Measure? Slideshow Add Photo
Measure for Madness, Shakespeare Wall, Lower Gorge, Smith Rock, OR
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Comments on Measure for Measure? Add Comment
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By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Dec 29, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

FYI - its called Measure For Madness. The Watts guide gives it .11d, which I think is accurate as long as your arms are long enough to span between both aretes of the column.