Measles Walls Rock Climbing
Series of small, short crags hidden in the woods along the East (a.k.a. Black Arches Wall) path, about 18 minutes' walk from the trailhead.
The cliff is typically low-angle face/steep slab, 25 to 60' high, and heavily pockmarked.
The Measles Wall is divided by several gaps and ledges; the first one when approaching from the trailhead is the Lower Measles Wall. Above the west end of this lies the "Over the Measles" Wall. A short walk up and farther east leads to the Upper Measles Wall, and below the Upper lies an "Under the Measles" Wall.
There is a mix of Trad, TR, and Sport routes on these walls.
Never crowded; this crag is a good early spring/late autumn haunt when longer climbs would freeze fingertips. While several routes are wet during the spring thaw or shortly after wet weather, a few dry quickly enough to make climbing in March or November a possibility. They get a lot of sunshine and are generally out of the wind, and combined with their close proximity to the trailhead, make the most convenient climbing on the mountain.
They are perhaps, too convenient: first-time climbers coming to Crane are often distracted by these diminutive cliffs, stopping here instead of heading farther in to the bigger, better stuff of the Isobuttress, Long Play, or Black Arches Walls. Many find out how hard and tiring the necessary techniques for climbing here are and then, too tired to carry on to the better climbing, lose their first "Crane" day to these short faces. If you are at Crane for the first time, climb these walls when time is short or as a final burn at day's end.
Walk east, through the Boulderwoods, and continue along the BAW trail, which passes directly under the cliffs of first the Lower Measles Wall, then the Upper Measles Wall.
Climbing Season For the Crane Mountain area.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
30 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Measles Walls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Measles Walls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Measles Walls:
Featured Route For Measles Walls
Hydrophobia 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c NY
: ... : Upper Measles Wall
Climb up to the crack on good holds, then follow the crack to its end. Step right and up (crux) to reach another crack; use this and the face on the left to reach a good ledge.An oak tree lies right at the top; making a convenient TR anchor, but you may want directionals, as the cracks do slant away from it....[more] Browse More Classics in NY