|1,900 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 150'|
|FA: ||Tod Anderson, Rich Magill, James Donnell, Christine Damiano, Mark Felty|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tod Anderson on Jul 28, 2002|
Nate Adams cruxing on Meanwhile, photo by Tod Ande...
This route is located at the edge of the west and south faces of The Crag Ranch where the south face reaches its lowest point. This route is LONG so TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE BEFORE YOU START. It is possible to do the whole thing in one continuous pitch from the ground, but you'll need a bucketload of draws. The part up to the first set of anchors, call it the first pitch if you like, is ten bolts and about 5.11c following granite tufas and laybacks. The next section is the business, trending right along a crystal band via underclings to a big reach & highstep (5.12c, about 12 more draws). After that spot the route stays on the front of the buttress avoiding the crack for more 5.12 face climbing on crimps, flakes and scoops, not as hard as below but still pumpy. There is a second station here, but you can't get all the way back to the ground with a 60m cord (a 70m will probably reach). It would be easy to lower from the second station to the first then pull the rope for the final lower with a 60m cord. The final bit goes up right through a roof, much easier, to the final anchor. It is also possible to traverse into the upper 2/3 of this route from the sunny ledge at the base of Granite Rodeo and Crag Rancher and you can lower from the top and reach the ledge with a 60m cord. This route has good stone, varied climbing, and lots of it, not exactly a two bolt wonder. Have fun!
28-30 bolts; there are two intermediate lowering stations. A 60m rope does NOT reach from the second station.
BETA PHOTO: Looking north out of the alcove.
|By Gern Blinston|
Sep 28, 2002
Better not be eating bacon for breakfast on this one. It is a masterpiece, powerful.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Sep 1, 2008
The first pitch makes a superb 11b/c route on its own. HIghly recommended. We stemmed past the first couple of bolts, which may or may not have been cheating. Either way, the most fun climbing is liebacking up the steep prow.
|By Tzilla Rapdrilla|
May 31, 2012
All protection bolt hardware on P1 upgraded 5/26/12.