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Redgarden - Roof Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Steel T 
Clear the Deck T 
Clever Lever S 
Dangerous Acquaintances T 
Downpressor Man S 
Evangeline S 
Fire and Ice  T,S 
Gem, The T 
Guardian Saint T 
Guen-Ice  T 
Guenese T 
Hands In The Clouds T,S 
Huck Off T,S 
Kloeberdanz T 
Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro T 
Last Rite T 
Le Toit T 
Le Toit Direct T 
Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
Mean Lean T 
Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 
Trippin T 
Tubesock Tanline T 
Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 

Mean Lean 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Apr 17, 2002

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  • Description 

    This route is more of a link-up than an independent line but it has some nice climbing and does follow a natural line, beginning on Kloeberdanz and moving left across the horizontal break under the roof band to finish at the anchors atop the first pitch of Psycho.

    Though the first bit heading left from Kloeberdanz looks desperate and piley, it actually has fairly solid rock and some ok pro. Once you reach Guenese, you get to start clipping bolts, but you'll still need plenty of gear to protect the stretches between each set of anchors.

    Lots of cruxes and plenty of interesting traversing make this an obscure but worthwhile Roof Wall outing.

    Protection 

    This is a long pitch. Bring lots of TCUs to 1.5" and some hand-sized stuff, plus stoppers.


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