Mean Lean  5.11d R

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Type:  Trad FA:  Rob Candelaria Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Apr 17, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

This route is more of a link-up than an independent line but it has some nice climbing and does follow a natural line, beginning on Kloeberdanz and moving left across the horizontal break under the roof band to finish at the anchors atop the first pitch of Psycho.

Though the first bit heading left from Kloeberdanz looks desperate and piley, it actually has fairly solid rock and some ok pro. Once you reach Guenese, you get to start clipping bolts, but you'll still need plenty of gear to protect the stretches between each set of anchors.

Lots of cruxes and plenty of interesting traversing make this an obscure but worthwhile Roof Wall outing.

Protection 

This is a long pitch. Bring lots of TCUs to 1.5" and some hand-sized stuff, plus stoppers.