The route is on the prow of the tower on the very left edge of the whole Cerberus Gendarmes. You can't help but notice the banana shaped chimney splitting the arete of this tower from the Angels View lot. This may have been done prior to Joe and Brody, or at least attemted as evidenced by old crappy fixed pro on the first pitch and a half. Joe and Brody found no anchors on the tower summit. Joe and Brody put some bolts next to the hard offwidth which makes the pitch less intimidating. Pitch 4 has a bouldery crux. Pitch 5 is super cool.
You'll know when you see it.
BETA PHOTO: I drew this topo days after we freed the route. Go...
|By B Roth|
From: st george, ut
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13
The whole time I kept thinking, iron messiah. It's a bit harder, and the rocks a little looser, and in general more fun. I'm not interested in climbing this thing again, however it's worth it for the summit. I'd advise you bring some extra webbing and some rap rings to augment/replace anything from sun wear.
Nov 20, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Come on Brandon, you know it wasn't that bad. However, I would say the crux was the 'bannana' pitch (that I did not lead but had no pro for us) and not the boulder crux shown in the book. Overall though had an excellent time, would highly recommend this climb.
|By Rob Duncan|
From: Salt Lake City
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
great shady route! Possible to link pitches 2 and 3, which also gives you a better belay stance, with a 70m.
P5 has two options right off the belay, either the more direct line which is a bit sandy but no harder than 5.10- or the right fist crack, which we didn't do, but might be a touch harder than 5.10+.
Rapping with 2 70m ropes: double rope rap, double rope rap (to the top of P1), single rope rap to the ground!
we brought doubles from tips to #3 camalot and a single old #4 camalot and a single old #5 camalot. I would bring a new #6 for the chimney pitch next time.
I thought the climbing on this was pretty clean and fun, but for the banana chimney pitch you do have to get 'blue-collar' with it.
all in all a great shady grade II.
|By greg t|
Jun 20, 2011
The Banana was my favorite part. All you need is an old pair of jeans, and a good sense of humor. ( a big bro and a long sling doesnt hurt though ) Popping out the top into the fist crack traverse is just good times.
|By eric schweitzer|
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 8, 2012
great route. the pitch after the "bannana" has a 200 pound plus loose block 3/4 of the way up that would probobly miss your belayer, but might take the leader for the ride of his life or end up hitting somebody cragging far below. fyi
|By Mary Harlan|
From: Aspen, CO
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Excellent adventure! Crisp rock & not too chalked up- the 3rd & 4th pitches are amazing. I recommend a #6 cam for the Banana pitch- you can place it about 50' up the pitch, & a couple 3's for the traverse. I started up the "5.9 blocks" & was a bit concerned about the several microwave sized loose blocks I was wiggling... I down climbed & there is an alternate traverse option from the white, sandy ledge below, which takes you to the second rappel anchor. Spicy traverse leads to an early exit if you wish to avoid the loose blocks. Awesome route, however!