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Meadow River Gorge

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Lower Meadow 
South Side Crags 
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Meadow River Gorge  


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 120,486
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
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Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I ...

Description 

The Meadow River Gorge is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Getting There 

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

181 Total Routes

['4 Stars',24],['3 Stars',93],['2 Stars',46],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',7],['5.9',15],['5.10',37],['5.11',45],['5.12',51],['5.13',16],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Meadow River Gorge:
Arachniphobia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Chimpanzabubbas   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Flaming Pellets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Trojans   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Tiggers and Airplanes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Replicant   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Low Brow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Depth Charge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Puppy Chow   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Lavender Days   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
The Project   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Browse More Classics in Meadow River Gorge

Featured Route For Meadow River Gorge
Christian reflecting (literally!) on the perfect s...

White Trash 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Toxic Hueco Area
This is one of the finest short powerful routes in the New River Gorge region. When viewing it from the ground it is intimidating because it is hard to identify a single positive hold on the pristine white stone. Start by soloing to a large platform 20' off the ground. Be sure to stick clip this one before battling up through exquisite, well textured slopers. The difficulty arises immediately after clipping the third bolt. Here you must bear down on some shallow pockets, make a long rightwa...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Meadow River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
The Meadow River.
The Meadow River.
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....

Comments on Meadow River Gorge Add Comment
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By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2013
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
By Cocoapuffs 1000
Nov 23, 2013
What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place?
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 23, 2013
Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future.
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Mar 2, 2014
All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Mar 5, 2014
Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, newriverclimbing.net/.