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Meadow River Gorge

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Lower Meadow 
South Side Crags 
Upper Meadow 

Meadow River Gorge 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 104,446
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
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Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I ...

Description 

The Meadow River Gorge is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.


Getting There 

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.


171 Total Routes


['4 Stars',24],['3 Stars',89],['2 Stars',40],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',14],['5.10',34],['5.11',40],['5.12',51],['5.13',16],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Meadow River Gorge:
Arachniphobia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall
Chimpanzabubbas   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Flaming Pellets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Trojans   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Tiggers and Airplanes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Low Brow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Replicant   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Brown Star   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Brilliant Pebble
Depth Charge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Puppy Chow   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Lavender Days   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Browse More Classics in Meadow River Gorge

Featured Route For Meadow River Gorge
Two bolts protect the start. Forget about placing pro after the second and focus on climbing as the plated crack offers little purchase to hang out.

Heart of Darkness 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Orange Wall
The meat of this route is at the bottom. You can start below the first bolt (a good hold broke here while we were on it, so it is probably a bit harder), or ~6 ft to the left. Clip the only two bolts on the route, and pump your way through some typical New River Gorge not-really-crack-climbing. After this, enjoy easier gear protected climbing to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Meadow River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
The Meadow River.
The Meadow River.
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place... That puddle can get pretty deep in early spring...
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....
Comments on Meadow River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2013

As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.

By Cocoapuffs 1000
Nov 23, 2013

What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place?

By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 23, 2013

Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future.

By Meme Guy
From: Land of Runout Slab
Jan 1, 2014

fuckin access problems...

By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Mar 2, 2014

All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters.

By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Mar 5, 2014

Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, www.newriverclimbing.net/.