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Meadow River Gorge

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Lower Meadow 
South Side Crags 
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Meadow River Gorge  


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 151,072
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
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Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I ...

Description 

The Meadow River Gorge is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Getting There 

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

186 Total Routes

['4 Stars',27],['3 Stars',92],['2 Stars',47],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',7],['5.9',15],['5.10',36],['5.11',49],['5.12',51],['5.13',17],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Meadow River Gorge:
Arachniphobia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Flaming Pellets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Trojans   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Tiggers and Airplanes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Replicant   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Low Brow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Depth Charge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Puppy Chow   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
White Trash   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Lavender Days   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
The Project   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Browse More Classics in Meadow River Gorge

Featured Route For Meadow River Gorge
Just Another Pretty Face

Just Another Pretty Face 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Greatest Show Area
Another classic route in this area, and a bit more accessible to us gumbies than Greatest Show on Earth or Mango Tango. Start on a 5.7-ish finger crack a bit to the left o Puppy Chow. Some finger-sized cams may help if you don't want to solo 30 feet of 5.7 up to the massive ledge. From here, clip a bolt on the face to your left, and do a crazy crux sequence of heelhooks and a big reach into an undercling. Once over the lip, it is easier (10b-ish?) but really fun climbing for three more bolts...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Meadow River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
The Meadow River.
The Meadow River.
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....

Comments on Meadow River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2013
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
By Cocoapuffs 1000
Nov 23, 2013
What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place?
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 23, 2013
Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future.
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Mar 2, 2014
All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Mar 5, 2014
Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, newriverclimbing.net/.
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