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Meadow River
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Area 51 
Brilliant Pebble, The 
First Buttress 
Greatest Show Area 
Moon Wall 
Orange Wall 
Other Place, The 
Puppy Chow Area 
Second Buttress 
Sunkist Wall 
Tan Wall 
Third Buttress 
Toxic Hueco Area 

Meadow River 


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 15, 2009

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The Meadow River.

Description 

The Meadow is an amazing area! Every bit as high quality as the New River Gorge. In general, most routes are over 5.10. Some true classics are here! This area has increased in popularity in the last few years since its inclusion in the Cater Guide, 3rd Edition. And with better information now available with the release of the Williams guide, the traffic has certainly increased.

Climbing is permitted here, however, use common sense to ensure this amazing area remains open to the public.


Getting There 

For the most popular areas at the Meadow (Lower Meadow and the First, Second, and Third Buttress)turn left on to Underwood Road immediately after crossing the bridge heading north on 19. (right on last road before crossing the bridge heading south). Make a quick left and head to a pull out on the left side of the road as you head up the hill. Do not block the entrances to the ATV trails. If this parking area is full, don't park on the road, go back to the bottom of the hill and park in the large gravel lot there. Some folks park on the side of 19 just before the bridge, however there is a no parking sign there, so use some caution. The length of the approach and directions vary, depending on the area you intend to climb.

If you intend to climb at the South Side Crags (Mud Hueco, Brilliant Pebble, Area 51, the Other Place, and Orange Wall) its best to approach from Propps Ridge Road near the intersection of Lansing Edmond Road and Route 60. To do so, continue down Propps Ridge heading left along the paved road after passing the school. Eventually it turns to gravel and dirt. When you come to the first major intersection, you need to cross the Glade creek. You must decide whether to cross the old bridge or drive across the creek above the waterfall. From here, follow the gravel road to the hair pin turn. You can also approach this area from the north by following Rt 41 south to the Nallen bridge. Just after the bridge, make a right and then make a right onto the gravel railroad grade. This approach is a bit less technical for your vehicle, but a high clearance vehicle is still recommended. For all the crags, make sure you park completely off of the railroad grade. If your parking spot is full, there are many others, just park somewhere else and walk.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Meadow River:
Arachniphobia   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Sunkist Wall
Floaters   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   First Buttress
Flaming Pellets   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Other Place
Tatanka   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Orange Wall
Waco not Hueco   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Area 51
Toxic Hueco   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Toxic Hueco Area
Trojans   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Toxic Hueco Area
Tiggers and Airplanes   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Other Place
Replicant   5.12a     Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet   Area 51
Low Brow   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Other Place
Push   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   First Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Third Buttress
Depth Charge   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   The Other Place
Puppy Chow   5.12c     Sport, 100 feet   Puppy Chow Area
Creature   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   First Buttress
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Puppy Chow Area
Lavender Days   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Puppy Chow Area
The Greatest Show On Earth   5.13a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Puppy Chow Area
Mango Tango   5.14a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Puppy Chow Area
Browse More Classics in Meadow River

Featured Route For Meadow River
If you're lucky, this big stick might still be there to stick clip the high first bolt.

Tatanka 5.11c  WV : New River Gorge : ... : Orange Wall
This route has amazing movement and flow. It's fairly continuous but most of the harder moves are near the bolts. The first bolt is about 25 feet up at the top of the huecos. You might find a huge stick clip here, but you can also place a stopper at the bottom of the huecos. Climb up through the huecos and at the first bolt head left. Find a way to reach the jugs up left and angle back right to clip the 2nd bolt. If you can hang out here, you might be able to sling a chickenhead betw...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV


Photos of Meadow River Slideshow Add Photo
Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow.  I prefer this approach to the old railroad bridge alternative.

Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I ...