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Meadow River Gorge

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Lower Meadow 
South Side Crags 
Upper Meadow 

Meadow River Gorge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 67,171
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
Forecast:
Tonight

58°
Sunday

80° | 61°
Monday

80° | 55°
Tuesday

69° | 47°
Wednesday

70° | 47°
Thursday

68° | 49°
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Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I ...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Meadow River Gorge is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Getting There 

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

216 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',31],['3 Stars',106],['2 Stars',52],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',9],['5.9',18],['5.10',45],['5.11',52],['5.12',61],['5.13',20],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Meadow River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Meadow River Gorge:
Arachniphobia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Flaming Pellets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Tiggers and Airplanes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Meadow : Second Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Low Brow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Depth Charge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Elliott   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : Cambodia
Puppy Chow   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Lavender Days   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
White Trash   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
The Project   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Meadow River Gorge

Featured Route For Meadow River Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Umbel digging into the Corner Pocket (13a) a...

Corner Pocket 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
Easier climbing for the first four bolts or so, to the regular First Buttress sit-down rest. From here on it gets harder, with several tough boulder problems going over little roofs, separated by good rests. The very top goes into a hanging dihedral. There are two no hands rests, which makes the upper dihedral a little easier than expected....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Meadow River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....
Rock Climbing Photo: The Meadow River.
The Meadow River.

Comments on Meadow River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2013
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
By Cocoapuffs 1000
Nov 23, 2013
What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place?
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 23, 2013
Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future.
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Mar 2, 2014
All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Mar 5, 2014
Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, newriverclimbing.net/.

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