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Meadow River Gorge

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Lower Meadow 
South Side Crags 
Upper Meadow 

Meadow River Gorge Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 55,195
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
Forecast:
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81° | 65°
Saturday

85° | 67°
Sunday

85° | 67°
Monday

82° | 66°
Tuesday

84° | 66°
Wednesday

85° | 65°
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Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I ...

Description 

The Meadow River Gorge is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Getting There 

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

213 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',104],['2 Stars',54],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',8],['5.9',18],['5.10',44],['5.11',52],['5.12',60],['5.13',20],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Meadow River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Meadow River Gorge:
Arachniphobia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Flaming Pellets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Tiggers and Airplanes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Low Brow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Meadow : Second Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Depth Charge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Elliott   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : Cambodia
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Puppy Chow   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
White Trash   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Lavender Days   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
The Project   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Meadow River Gorge

Featured Route For Meadow River Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Blanco making the big reach out to the flake under...

Depth Charge 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : The Other Place
This is the line to do if you come to this area! Amazing climbing through 2 large roofs with fixed draws the whole way. Climb up the vertical face, making some thin moves before the 1st roof. Climb out the 15 ft roof along a flake to reach the upper face under the next roof. Make a thin traverse right and then head up to pull the 2nd roof (crux). Once you pull the 2nd roof, it's smooth sailing for about 20 feet to the shuts. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Meadow River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Meadow River.
The Meadow River.
Rock Climbing Photo: Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....

Comments on Meadow River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2013
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
By Cocoapuffs 1000
Nov 23, 2013
What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place?
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 23, 2013
Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future.
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Mar 2, 2014
All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Mar 5, 2014
Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, newriverclimbing.net/.

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