Very secluded high quality slab climbing. Some bolted routes, up to 3 pitches.
See Glenn's maps. From the very small pull-off on the Kanc at 43.99704, -071.38081, ride bike back a few hundred yards to the river. Cross the river (usually knee deep) to a forest road connector and ride maybe 5 minutes to join Rob Brook road, bearing right. Continue on Rob Brook rd until you get to Swan's Junction, a large clearing with a kiosk. Take a left there and bike another 5-10 minutes, crossing 2 bridges. After a clearing, look for a somewhat overgrown road up to the right at 44.02058, -071.41216 that takes you into large clearing. Go left, following this maybe 10 minutes to old logging landing on the right. Take the obvious opening straight ahead and bushwhack northeast.
If the river is unfordable, you will have to park at the other end of Rob Brook rd at bear Notch rd, and ride all the way up it until you get to Swan's Junction from the other direction (easy, but long)
1. Gain a ledge, then follow a line of bolts up a smooth face (5.10a) to a good stance. Continue left past a lichen strip, then go straight up on easier rock to a hanging belay at a small tree on the left. 90', 5.10a2. Move right along a ramp, plug in a small cam, and overcome a steep wall protected by bolts (5.10c). Nice moves on perfect granite lead past bolts to a horizontal crack and overlap. Two more bolts lead over another steep section (5.9) to a great ledge. After a 5.7 move, scramble up...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
I'd love to have more details on the routes. Its a 45 minute bike ride and a 30 minute walk. The pull off parking area is a bouldered off logging road a few miles west of Bear Notch Rd. The river is less than knee deep and close to the Kanc but not visible from it.
Ya a bit past Passaconway but before the historical house (name ? ) I think it's a bit faster but really only for the west side.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Sep 11, 2012
The pull-off is at 43.99704, -071.38081. I explored the cliff some on a wet day to find the routes. Kindred Spirits looked ready to go with just a minimal bit of cleaning needed at the start. Regurgitation needs extensive cleaning. My impression of the cliff is that the rock quality is high and there is potential for more good lines, but that they will require sustained effort to put them up, probably better spent elsewhere for now. If a party was going there regularly so the way in was fine tuned and beat out, the approach would not be bad, but right now it is kind of arduous.