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Kracken, The 
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TJ Swan 

MD 20/20 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Nov 9, 2009
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Description 

Originally a top rope route, this fine Enchanted Rock climb was later bolted by the first ascensionist in order to entertain the pleading cries of the masses to make it a bold lead. Certainly bold since the average stretch between bolts is 20'+ feet, including a "heady" section between bolt #3 and #4....a possible ankle breaker on the slab underneath the overlap. A quality slab route nonetheless! Highly recommended!

Start by locating 2 bolts on the initial slab section (15' left of Ripple and 10' right of an obvious black stain...often wet). Clip the 2 bolts while heading up to the overlap/headwall. Clip the 3rd bolt above the overlap (a height dependant reach to clip) and make a balancy mantle onto the slab above. Delicate footwork and small crimps up and slightly right lead to clipping the 4th bolt (the crux...a mental one for sure!). From bolt #4, continue up the dark section of rock and clip the 5th bolt and eventually to the achors above. Lower off with a 6o meter rope.


Location 

This route it situated 15' left of the start of 'Ripple'. Locate 2 bolts on slab above before it reaches an overlap/headwall. A 60 meter rope will reach the ground to lower off the anchors.


Protection 

- (5) bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor.



Comments on MD 20/20 Add Comment
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By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Nov 9, 2009

Nice route. A bit spooky after the 3rd bolt. Did this as the last route of the day...just as it started to rain! =O

By mattm
From: TX
Jan 18, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Agree with the comments on TJ Swan. 20/20 is not more difficult than TJ. 5.8. You can get gear in below the headwall but it's pretty straightforward to reach up and clip the bolt above the bulge. A bit spicy moving to the next bolt so a heads up belay to keep you off the slab below would be nice. Didn't feel R to me - more PG13+