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McTech Roof 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Season: Summer
Page Views: 2,677
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Jul 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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At the wide part of McTech Roof.


P1:Head up easy but slightly spooky flakes to a short, steep handcrack. Pull through this(technical crux) to the base of the obvious large roof and a great rest. Lieback out through the roof with good, but spread-out feet, saving juice for the awkard and strenous lip encounter.

Pull over the lip on perfect hands and bad/high feet and then cruise up the easy but excellent hand crack. Walk over the top of the flake and down to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

"P2" Walk to the flake you climbed over on the first pitch and head directly up the crack through some easy OW to a crumbly lieback flake that feels insecure but is relatively easy. Climb this until the obvious finger crack presents itself. Climb the fingercrack on exfoliating feet and then traverse with no pro about 20 feet left(10-, PG13) to a loose gully-type feature. Mountaineer this rubble-choked POS until you reach a large sloping black ledge(5.6, R/X). Belay your partner up, then traverse down and right to a two bolt anchor and continue to the top on the McTech Arete Route.

I think the P2 could be made safer and more enjoyable by traversing farther right off the belay ledge to the next, or by finding a face traverse below the finger crack. As it stands in my description, P2 is a bomb pitch with the potential for large falls and pulling blocks onto your belayer and parties below. If someone has better navigational directions please PM me so I can change this description.


Start next to a leaning flake, to the left of McTech Arete, under the obvious ~20 foot roof.


Nothing larger than a number 3. Doubles of standard sizes, no extra small cams or nuts needed.

Photos of McTech Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Intimidating, pumpy, and so sick
Intimidating, pumpy, and so sick
4th pitch
4th pitch
Joe coming up to the second belay.
Joe coming up to the second belay.
Joe coming up the excellent 3rd pitch.
Joe coming up the excellent 3rd pitch.

Comments on McTech Roof Add Comment
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By Kedron Silsbee
From: Princeton, NJ
Aug 29, 2013

As an alternate second pitch, I went straight up an off-fingers (BD .75) crack a few feet to the left of the arete which starts ~30 feet above the McTech roof until it tapered off. Then around the arete into the top of energy crisis and up to the chains at the top of the second pitch of McTech. This seemed similar difficulty to the first pitch, and not particularly scary.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jan 6, 2014

By Hans
From: Squamish, BC
Oct 22, 2014

Or rap off the anchor at the top of P1 described above, if you only want to climb the roof.
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