McTech Arete
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 50.74999, -116.7767 |
| FA: | Doug Klewin and Pat McNerthney, August 1978 |
| Page Views: | 31,027 total · 133/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Oct 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
This is another good climb that's close to camp for those days when the weathers not so good. This route is also a classic so you might have to wait in line.
P1: Climb up flakes to a small corner roof, step left to another crack and continue up a short chimney to a belay on top of a pillar. (5.9) (Or just jam straight up the roof with perfect hands at 5.10)
P2: This pitch is classic. Follow a finger and hand crack out left from above the belay to an alcove. Climb up through the alcove jamming the outstanding crack up a steep face to a ledge and belay at a chain anchor. (5.10-) (the first two pitches can be combined)
P3: Climb some corners and easy ground up and to the right to another anchor. (5.4)
P4: Step right from the anchor behind a flake and climb up a nice corner to a roof. Traverse out right under the roof to another corner and pull a second roof to a belay ledge on the left with chains. (5.9)
P5: Climb some cracks on the face to the right and gain a corner which leads to another ledge with chains. (5.8)
P6: Climb up a steep corner and then scramble left around the arete. Continue up a face to the ridge crest and belay. (5.7)



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