Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Crescent Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Energy Crisis T 
McTech Arete T 
McTech Roof T 
Paddle Flake Direct T 
Surprisingly Subsevere T 
Westside Story T 
Woza Moya T 
Unsorted Routes:

McTech Arete 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Doug Klewin, Pat McNurtney, August 1978
Page Views: 9,644
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
First rap off top of McTech Arete.

Description 

This is another good climb that's close to camp for those days when the weathers not so good. This route is also a classic so you might have to wait in line.

P1: Climb up flakes to a small corner roof, step left to another crack and continue up a short chimney to a belay on top of a pillar. (5.9) (Or just jam straight up the roof with perfect hands at 5.10)

P2: This pitch is classic. Follow a finger and hand crack out left from above the belay to an alcove. Climb up through the alcove jamming the outstanding crack up a steep face to a ledge and belay at a chain anchor. (5.10-) (the first two pitches can be combined)

P3: Climb some corners and easy ground up and to the right to another anchor. (5.4)

P4: Step right from the anchor behind a flake and climb up a nice corner to a roof. Traverse out right under the roof to another corner and pull a second roof to a belay ledge on the left with chains. (5.9)

P5: Climb some cracks on the face to the right and gain a corner which leads to another ledge with chains. (5.8)

P6: Climb up a steep corner and then scramble left around the arete. Continue up a face to the ridge crest and belay. (5.7)


Location 

This route starts off the same ledge as Paddle Flake but about 40' or 50' to the right on a large boulder below some flakes.


Protection 

Rack up to 4" with extra finger, hand and fist sizes.



Photos of McTech Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Lisa Foster on the 4th pitch which features beautiful, moderate handcracks in corners. I thought this was the best pitch on the route.
Lisa Foster on the 4th pitch which features beauti...
McTech Roof (5.10+).
McTech Roof (5.10+).
The beautiful corner/roof on p4.
The beautiful corner/roof on p4.
CLimbers on McTech
BETA PHOTO: CLimbers on McTech
McTech Arete, Crescent Spire <br />Photo by MP contributor Kurt Johnson <br /> <br />Red - McTech Arete <br />Green - Energy Crisis <br />
BETA PHOTO: McTech Arete, Crescent Spire
Photo by MP contribut...
Comments on McTech Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is definitely not an old-school 5.10. The crux protects very well and has tons of rests, so it feels easy.

By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Dec 13, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought the crux was the finish on the first pitch.

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Super fun short route to do in the bugs. The rock quality is amazing, sharp and splitter. The jams are fun through the little roofs and the protection is great. Head up there any enjoy it all the way to the top.

The scramble to the summit is easy and worth doing for the view.

The rappels are fairly straightforward. Use 2 ropes.

By clint helander
From: anchorage, alaska
Dec 5, 2013

great page! One suggestion: the FA was Pat McNerthney, not Pat McNurty.

Love the Bugs!!!!!