McTech Arete 5.10-
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Doug Klewin, Pat McNurtney, August 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Steven Lucarelli on Oct 13, 2006 |
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First rap off top of McTech Arete.
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Description This is another good climb that's close to camp for those days when the weathers not so good. This route is also a classic so you might have to wait in line.
P1: Climb up flakes to a small corner roof, step left to another crack and continue up a short chimney to a belay on top of a pillar. (5.9) (Or just jam straight up the roof with perfect hands at 5.10)
P2: This pitch is classic. Follow a finger and hand crack out left from above the belay to an alcove. Climb up through the alcove jamming the outstanding crack up a steep face to a ledge and belay at a chain anchor. (5.10-) (the first two pitches can be combined)
P3: Climb some corners and easy ground up and to the right to another anchor. (5.4)
P4: Step right from the anchor behind a flake and climb up a nice corner to a roof. Traverse out right under the roof to another corner and pull a second roof to a belay ledge on the left with chains. (5.9)
P5: Climb some cracks on the face to the right and gain a corner which leads to another ledge with chains. (5.8)
P6: Climb up a steep corner and then scramble left around the arete. Continue up a face to the ridge crest and belay. (5.7)
Location This route starts off the same ledge as Paddle Flake but about 40' or 50' to the right on a large boulder below some flakes.
Protection Rack up to 4" with extra finger, hand and fist sizes.
Lisa Foster on the 4th pitch which features beauti...
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BETA PHOTO: CLimbers on McTech
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The beautiful corner/roof on p4.
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McTech Roof (5.10+).
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BETA PHOTO: McTech Arete, Crescent Spire
Photo by MP contribut...
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By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2007
rating: 5.9
| This is definitely not an old-school 5.10. The crux protects very well and has tons of rests, so it feels easy. |
By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Dec 13, 2007
rating: 5.10-
| I thought the crux was the finish on the first pitch. |
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.10-
| Super fun short route to do in the bugs. The rock quality is amazing, sharp and splitter. The jams are fun through the little roofs and the protection is great. Head up there any enjoy it all the way to the top.
The scramble to the summit is easy and worth doing for the view.
The rappels are fairly straightforward. Use 2 ropes. |
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