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Little Rock Candy Mountain
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M & Ms Plain T 
McStumpy Sandwich T 
My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas S 
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McStumpy Sandwich 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Don Reid, Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford 4/88
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: David Cox on Oct 23, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: McStumpy Sandwich. The bolt is on the right side ...

Description 

Started out on a rail and moved up and slightly right towards the bolt 20 or so feet up. Above the bolt the rock is solid and the climbing gets steep climbing past a horizontal and through some thin seems. One of my favorite leads as far as keeping my head together goes. Good Times!!!!Rap off M&Ms plain.


Protection 

One bolt + a light rack for the climbing. I could not seem to find anything worthy of placing past the bolt (You may find something). Large pro for anchor.



Photos of McStumpy Sandwich Slideshow Add Photo
The bolt. But it looks like something can go in the thin crack above.
BETA PHOTO: The bolt. But it looks like something can go in th...
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007

We TR'd this, taking a direct line up the center of the face. It gets thin on less than positive edges, and near vertical at the top. Doing the climb this way definately felt .10a. Balancy and sequential - fun fun fun!

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

FA's: Alan Bartlett, Don Reid, Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford

Four on the first ascent but only one bolt?!! Honest to biscuit if this route had just one more bolt on it and people would be lined up for it.

I was the second today but feel confident in saying the route is fun and good with not a move harder than 5.9 on it. If you're a solid .9 leader and have your wits about you'll enjoy this sandwich! As a bonus it has a very short (one move) bouldery start which adds to the fun.

We don't frequent this crag often but this route will be added to the circuit for sure.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 7, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Good route! Wander on up to the bolt, clip the 1/4" relic and cast off. You can head up and right on really crappy rock and feel safer, or head left on really good rock with adequate holds. I did the up left method and thought the climbing was really good, but the fall would be really bad. Suffice it to say you would not be walking back to the car if you came off. Beauty of it is, you wont come off as holds just continue to appear as needed. Anchor on top is non existent but you can sling some horns pretty far back from the lip. Rap from the bolted anchor for M and M's Plain.