McMurray must be Castrated
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Erik chose not to use the first bolt...beast!!
Scramble to the roof near the top. Pull through the roof on good horizontals. This route doesn't see a lot of traffic so beware of loose rock. Clean route with a follower.
30 feet to the left of I Love Big Jugs, you will see the lone bolt 10 feet up.
One bolt at the beginning, gear the rest of the way. No anchors at the top as of 6/6/08. Walk off or rap.
By Robin H.
May 14, 2012
This is a fun route, but very hard to get back to if you have a fall while top-roping. The anchor is on a roof, so look out for the trees behind you when you swing out. Otherwise a really fun route!
By Spencer Perry
Aug 17, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Led this last night. The picture on this page seems to bypass the main roof through the notch right of the roof. If you hand traverse left directly under the roof, plug a #2 C4, and pull through on decent horizontals to a top out on slopers and a heel hook the climbing is a little more exciting. Going this way felt 5.10-, which, I am guessing, is why the route is in the Horst book as a 5.10a. This finish was very exciting.