McMartin Cliff Rock Climbing
Mostly known for rock climbing (developed after the publication of Adirondack Rock), this cliff holds a couple high-quality ice lines. The west-facing aspect gets lots of afternoon sun, so early season is best.
The cliff is located in the Sacandaga River Valley in the southern section of the park, not far from Good Luck Mountain and Lost Hunter's Cliff.
Park at a pullout on NY 10, 11.8 miles south of NY 8, and 5.8 miles north of NY 29A.
Locate a path off the parking lot and follow this east, parallel to the road at first, then swinging north toward Chub Lake. About 100' before Chub Lake, turn right and follow the path parallel to the shoreline roughly north with occasional flagging. Leave sight of the pond and continue north across undulating terrain to the western end of some beaver ponds. Cross the outlet, then continue north by northwest going uphill to the height of land in a vague notch. Descent the other side of the notch for several hundred yards, then go northeast steeply uphill to the base of the cliff.
With good snow conditions, the approach takes just over an hour. Much slower if you have deep snow. Snowshoes work best.
Climbing Season For the Adirondack Ice Climbing area.
Weather station 12.2 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For McMartin Cliff
Gin and Juice
WI4 M5 NY
: ... : McMartin Cliff
Super excellent line with adequate protection. The route bakes off later in the season and will be completely devoid of ice.P1 M5 WI4: Go up the shallow chimney (runout, but not hard) to a roof. Around this on the left to a second roof. Go left 6' and enter a squeeze chimney. Exhale and squirm up the bowels of the mountain with increasing tightness to the top. 130'Descent: Rappel from trees 20' right, 110' to ground....[more] Browse More Classics in NY