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Mckenzie Pond Boulders

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Mckenzie Pond Boulders 


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Location: 44.3047, -74.0938 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,091
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Drake Pregnall on Dec 23, 2011
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Description 

Best bouldering in the Adirondacks. Located on county road 33 (McKenzie Pond Road) near saranac lake and lake placid. The pull off is right across the road from an old abandoned barn. There are four sets of boulders. Nearly every problem is of good quality. Nothing harder than V10. Most of the rock is sharp and clean. Landings are nearly all perfectly safe. There are a decent number of problems that are higher than is typical in other areas. If a second pad is "required" it is usually noted in the description of the route. Some problems such as Time Will Tell on the Second Set have horrible landings, but, with enough pads, are protectable enough to be safe, and are totally awesome climbs worth bringing the extra gear back for.

McKenzie Pond draws people in from all over the place, but overall, I wouldn't call the pond a stand alone destination for a visit from a substantial distance. If you were up in the Adirondacks and felt like a day of bouldering, you will be very pleasantly surprised. If you are relatively nearby though, it is definitely a place worth becoming familiar with. Very nice spot to change the pace of jamming the great cracks in Keene.


Getting There 

The traditional pull off is right across the road from the old Hunt farmhouse. The pull off will be on your right coming from Lake Placid, and on your left coming from Saranac lake. The first set of boulders is visible from the pull off. The boulders of each set are pretty close together, with relatively short trails connecting each of the sets. There are trails to the first three sets. The fourth set is not currently documented, and does not have a trail from the third set, but the rock back there is mostly clean, pretty tall, and worth checking out if you feel like some exploring. It is located a couple minutes east and downhill from the boulders in the Third Set.

Update Oct 2013: The Essex County Highway Dep. has created a new designated parking area for the McKenzie Pond Boulders. They have put up No Parking signs where the traditional parking for the boulders has been. The new parking is still on just the shoulder of the road but it is on the opposite side from the boulders and a little bit closer to Saranac Lake. The new parking area is signed and is about 150ft. away from the traditional parking area. The county is working to make access still possible while trying to keep cars off the road that create a traffic hazard. The county is going to be adding more gravel to make the shoulder not as soft as it is now and to allow for even more cars. PLEASE use this new designated parking area.


Climbing Season


56 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',6],['V2-3',27],['V4-5',12],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mckenzie Pond Boulders:
Rooster's Holiday   V0 4     Boulder   Second Set : Second Set Boulder
Popsicle   V0 4     Boulder   Second Set : Second Set Boulder
Looker   V1 5     Boulder   First Set : Front Boulder
Little Roof of Taiwan   V2 5+     Boulder   Second Set : Second Set Boulder
Giant Sucker   V2 5+     Boulder   Second Set : Second Set Boulder
Slabadon   V2 5+     Boulder   Second Set : Second Set Boulder
McMidgetson   V2 5+     Boulder   First Set : Front Boulder
Great Roof of China   V3 6A     Boulder   Second Set : Second Set Boulder
Hooker   V3 6A     Boulder   First Set : Front Boulder
Thrust Fault   V3 6A     Boulder   Third Set : Ball of Fame
The Actual Edge Of Gumby   V4- 6B     Boulder, 13'   Third Set : Alien
Shtickums   V4 6B     Boulder   Third Set : The Boneyard
Dickens   V4 6B     Boulder   Third Set : The Boneyard
Slobadon   V5 6C     Boulder   First Set : Front Boulder
Ian's Favorite Problem   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   First Set : Rhombohedron
Flux Capacitor    V8 7B     Boulder   Third Set : Alien
Browse More Classics in Mckenzie Pond Boulders

Featured Route For Mckenzie Pond Boulders
Thrust Fault

Thrust Fault V3 6A  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Ball of Fame
Start standing with your left hand on the right facing flake and your right hand on a sharp crimp. Climb up the flake and then throw out right for the big left rising ramp. Top out on the ramp. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Comments on Mckenzie Pond Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Feb 3, 2012

A note to those adding boulder problems at McKenzie Pond:

Many problem descriptions added in this section were taken word-for-word from the local guidebook. Obviously this is not allowed on Mountain Project. And, no, changing a single word in a sentence doesn't fly either.

Please refrain from plagiarizing guidebook descriptions.

Descriptions deemed to be plagiarized will be removed from the site.

By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 6, 2013

Im just some random person - but I dont see how a guidebook author copyrights the description to a set of moves established by someone else on a piece of rock that is owned by nobody?

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Mar 6, 2013

Owen --

Writing is creative expression and is copyrightable. Facts are not copyrightable; e.g., FA info, route names, route ordering. It has nothing to do with who owns a boulder, who did the FA, what the moves are, or where a route goes.

There's lots of discussion of plagiarism on various threads. Copying descriptions from any guidebook onto Mountain Project is not allowed (unless permission is granted by the copyright holder). Descriptions copied from guidebooks that find their way onto MP are routinely removed by site administrators.

By Will Roth
From: Lake Placid, NY
Oct 25, 2013

The Essex County Highway Dep. has created a new designated parking area for the McKenzie Pond Boulders. They have put up No Parking signs where the traditional parking for the boulders has been. The new parking is still on just the shoulder of the road but it is on the opposite side from the boulders and a little bit closer to Saranac Lake. The new parking area is signed and is about 150ft. away from the traditional parking area. The county is working to make access still possible while trying to keep cars off the road that create a traffic hazard. The county is going to be adding more gravel to make the shoulder not as soft as it is now and to allow for even more cars. PLEASE use this new designated parking area.

By Joe M.
Apr 29, 2014

We have added the old PDF guidebook that Kippy and Groover wrote to www.newenglandbouldering.com You can find it here: www.newenglandbouldering.com/mckenzie-pond

By AEnnis
Jul 19, 2014

Hello,
I am flying in from Ft Worth TX. I am going to be staying in the area all next week and really want to do one or two days of bouldering. I am unable to bring one of my pads b/c it would be $200 one way to check oversize luggage. So I am looking for a pad to use or some awesome people to climb with.

I have called the outfitters and stores and they aren't interested in renting out a pad. So I am turning to the awesome bouldering community. I would be thrilled to pay some one for the privilege to borrow a pad. Or to meet some new folks and join someone for a day of bouldering (I'll supply the beer and food).

I am not a creep and I am not interested in stealing a pad (I have plenty). I just really want to get on some of those blocks. Please feel free to respond your contact me at 971.506.5262 if you are interested in helping me out.

Thank you very much and I hope to see some of you out there.

Andrew Ennis

By yann gauthier
Aug 17, 2014