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McHenry's Peak

Select Route:
Dog Star T 
Hands of Time T 
House Of Cards T 
Kidnapper Van T 
NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete T 
Pair Of Jacks aka Jacks or Better To Open T 
SE Ridge T 
Stimulus Package T 

McHenry's Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,327'
Location: 40.2628, -105.657 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,653
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: justin dubois on Mar 28, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Eli Helmuth and Jeff Banks on the SE ridge

Description 

The massive and striking peak that forms the northern shoulder of Glacier Gorge and connects via a sharp ridge to Arrowhead Peak. It sits right(northwest) of Chiefshead. It has both quality adventure rock climbs on good rock and classic mixed routes.

Getting There 

Head northwest from the shelf above Black Lake, can't miss it.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.3 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for McHenry's Peak:
NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete        Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   
Browse More Classics in McHenry's Peak

Featured Route For McHenry's Peak
Pitch 2 imperial walker crack above.

Kidnapper Van 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : McHenry's Peak
This route follows a line up the very distinct righthand gendarme on the Arrowhead/McHenry's ridge "the Shameless Tower". It connects crack systems along the right side of this pronounced pillar in four full pitches.To start look for a large, worm-shaped pillar at the start of pitch two, about 250 feet above the grassy ledges/slabs. Start down and right of this pillar on a ledge 20' below a right facing corner with a left-angling splitter on it's right wall. A spot of fifth class gets you to thi...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for McHenry's Peak
Photos of McHenry's Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Early morning light on McHenry's....
Early morning light on McHenry's....
McHenry's Peak as seen from half way up Spearheads...
BETA PHOTO: McHenry's Peak as seen from half way up Spearheads...
McHenry's Peak as reflected from Black Lake
McHenry's Peak as reflected from Black Lake
BETA PHOTO
Eric B ascends the ice/snowfield approach to McHen...
Eric B ascends the ice/snowfield approach to McHen...
McHenry's from Chiefhead, 2/08.
McHenry's from Chiefhead, 2/08.
McHenry's Notch Couloir.
McHenry's Notch Couloir.
McHenry's as viewed from Pagoda.
McHenry's as viewed from Pagoda.
McHenry's in early morning light.
McHenry's in early morning light.
McHenry's.
McHenry's.

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