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McHenry's Peak
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Select Route:
Dog Star 
Hands of Time 
House Of Cards 
Kidnapper Van 
NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete 
Pair Of Jacks aka Jacks or Better To Open 
SE Ridge 
Stimulus Package 

McHenry's Peak 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,327'
Lat, Long: 40.2628, -105.657 Map
Page Views: 12,559. Good page?   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: justin dubois on Mar 28, 2003

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: Eli Helmuth and Jeff Banks on the SE ridge

Description 

The massive and striking peak that forms the northern shoulder of Glacier Gorge and connects via a sharp ridge to Arrowhead Peak. It sits right(northwest) of Chiefshead. It has both quality adventure rock climbs on good rock and classic mixed routes.


Getting There 

Head northwest from the shelf above Black Lake, can't miss it.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for McHenry's Peak:
NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete        Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade II   
Kidnapper Van   5.11+     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 770 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in McHenry's Peak

Featured Route For McHenry's Peak
Dakers Gowans on the final pitch of Dog Star (FA).

Dog Star 5.8  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : McHenry's Peak
This long route offers good rock and several excellent pitches. It climbs near the center of the deceptively large triangular buttress that dominates McHenry's northeast face. A good corner pitch low on the route leads to an easier midsection. At 2/3 height another steep corner breaks through to the upper wall. Variations are possible near the top; the original line ends right at the apex of the buttress.The FA took place during the dog days of summer, which were once believed to b...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of McHenry's Peak Slideshow Add Photo
McHenry's Peak as seen from half way up Spearheads north ridge

BETA PHOTO: McHenry's Peak as seen from half way up Spearheads...


BETA PHOTO
Eric B ascends the ice/snowfield approach to McHenry's Notch Couloir.

Eric B ascends the ice/snowfield approach to McHen...

McHenry's Notch Couloir.

McHenry's Notch Couloir.

McHenry's in early morning light.

McHenry's in early morning light.

McHenry's from Chiefhead, 2/08.

McHenry's from Chiefhead, 2/08.

McHenry's Peak as reflected from Black Lake

McHenry's Peak as reflected from Black Lake

McHenry's as viewed from Pagoda.

McHenry's as viewed from Pagoda.

Early morning light on McHenry's....

Early morning light on McHenry's....