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DescriptionThe massive and striking peak that forms the northern shoulder of Glacier Gorge and connects via a sharp ridge to Arrowhead Peak. It sits right(northwest) of Chiefshead. It has both quality adventure rock climbs on good rock and classic mixed routes. Getting ThereHead northwest from the shelf above Black Lake, can't miss it. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for McHenry's Peak:
NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade II
Kidnapper Van 5.11+ Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 770 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For McHenry's Peak
Dog Star 5.8 CO : Alpine Rock : ... : McHenry's Peak
This long route offers good rock and several excellent pitches. It climbs near the center of the deceptively large triangular buttress that dominates McHenry's northeast face. A good corner pitch low on the route leads to an easier midsection. At 2/3 height another steep corner breaks through to the upper wall. Variations are possible near the top; the original line ends right at the apex of the buttress.The FA took place during the dog days of summer, which were once believed to b...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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