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Stone Mountain South Face
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Mcgrady's route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: Jeff White, Gary Slate FFA: Jeff White, Fred Bauer
Season: Fall, Winter
Page Views: 188
Submitted By: Emil Briggs on Dec 10, 2013

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Description 

This route is also known as Happy Trails or Disco Dance of Death.

The climb starts from the same sloping ledge as the Discipline but about 15 feet to the right of it. The first pitch starts up a steep face. You can protect the opening with small stoppers or brass. Clip an old bolt below a small roof. Pull the roof with a very un Stone like move and head up to another bolt. There are some small cam placements here and there as well. Make your way over the bulges to a belay ledge below the big roof where you will find a single bolt. You can back this up with a stopper as well.

This pitch is 5.9+ to 5.10a and is steep and fun. The second pitch involves pulling through the big roof band that is the most prominent feature on the left end of the South Face. There are some solid moves getting up to the roof that you can protect with a medium sized cam. Then clip the obvious bolt and try to pull the roof. My first hand knowledge ends at this point as I have never been able to do the move.

Location 

Left end of south face. A bit of a bushwhack to get there as there is no obvious trail. From the Block Route area head left and up along the cliff face. Go past the large flakes leaning against the cliff until you come to an area with a sloping ledge below the big roof band. Look for bolts up o n the face. The leftmost set of bolts is the Discipline while the rightmost set is McGrady's.

Protection 

First pitch only: 2 protection bolts and 1 belay bolt. Bring a light rack with small to medium sized cams, some small stoppers or brass and a few larger stoppers for the first pitch belay.

Unfortunately as of October 2013 the bolts on this route had not been replaced when the rest of the south face was done and do not inspire confidence.


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