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McGillivray Slabs

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Morning Side S 

McGillivray Slabs Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,400'
Location: 51.0464, -115.1899 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,071
Administrators: Tom Gnyra, Dave Rone, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 2, 2011
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Description 

McGillivray Slabs are North facing and just a hair west of Heart Mountain and before Dead Man's Flat. Located just East of Canmore. The slabs have a short 15 minute approach and several moderate climbs on solid rock. Reminiscent of Kid Goat, but more friction climbing. Several 4 pitch bolted sport routes and a few easy trad routes (Kahl Crack). Worth a visit on a short day.

The downside is the highway noise and looking at the quarry across the lake. There are certainly worse views out there though.

Routes from climbers Left to Right:
Gollywog (5.7R, 240m, 7 pitches, Howe & C. Smith, 1971)
Pythagoras (5.7 270m, 7 pitches, R. Howe, J. Martin & J. White, 1971)
Pixie (5.6, 7 pitches, R. Howe & J. Martin, 1971)
Imagination
Tony's Route (5.5, A. Shaw & F. Williamson, 1969)
McGillivraneering (5.9, 200m+, FA: Brandon Pullan 2005 rope-solo)
7-Up (5.7, First ascent party unknown)
Rubble Without a Cause (5.5, 95m, G. Powter & D. Chandler, June 1983)
Hiatus (5.8 70 m 2 pitches, B. Wyvill and G. Powter, June 1985)
Pitter Patter (5.8 6 pitches?, I. Stewart-Patterson & M. Toft, 1982)
Overhang Route (5.7?, B. Davidson & L. Drews)
Taiga (5.7, 170m FA: Brandon Pullan, June 2005, rope-solo)
Raspberry Ramble
Dirty Boys
Kahl Crack (5.6, 200 m, H. Kahl & party, circa 1965)
Morningside (5.7, 4 pitches)
Student's Route (5.5, A. Derbyshire & party, 1980)
Faye
and several others I haven't found info on yet

Getting There 

While heading eastbound from Canmore towards Calgary, when you get to the Lac des Arcs lake, park on the eastbound side of the highway just past a 95km / hr speed sign located just after the little lake on the right. There is a climbers pullout.

Hike up the climbers trail to a fire road and follow that uphill to the base of the crag. Kahl Crack is the giant crack visible from the highway. Morning Side starts just past the cave entrance (obvious, on main trail) and right of Kahl Crack. Several other sport multipitch climbs are located right by the cave, look for bolts.

Climbing Season

For the Bow Valley area.

Weather station 8.5 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in McGillivray Slabs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for McGillivray Slabs:
Morning Side   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 4 pitches, 475'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in McGillivray Slabs

Featured Route For McGillivray Slabs
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning Side topo, from the in progress Banff Rock...

Morning Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  North America : Canada : ... : McGillivray Slabs
An excellent multipitch sport climb on pretty darn good rock. A short approach make this a good route to do if in the area and looking for something longer than can be found in Heart Creek....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of McGillivray Slabs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: McGillivray Slabs routes with topo lines. Stumbled...
BETA PHOTO: McGillivray Slabs routes with topo lines. Stumbled...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pythagorus Bowl area. Gollywog is here as well.
Pythagorus Bowl area. Gollywog is here as well.
Rock Climbing Photo: McGillivray Slabs from the Banff Rock PDF that has...
BETA PHOTO: McGillivray Slabs from the Banff Rock PDF that has...
Rock Climbing Photo: McGillivray Slabs route - Faye. Stumbled across th...
BETA PHOTO: McGillivray Slabs route - Faye. Stumbled across th...
Rock Climbing Photo: McGillivray Slabs route topo in progress. Randomly...
BETA PHOTO: McGillivray Slabs route topo in progress. Randomly...
Rock Climbing Photo: TOPO from rockies obscure
BETA PHOTO: TOPO from rockies obscure
Rock Climbing Photo: McGillivray Slabs topo from the Banff Rock guidebo...
BETA PHOTO: McGillivray Slabs topo from the Banff Rock guidebo...

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