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McCurdy Park Tower

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McCurdy Park Tower  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jul 6, 2003
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Description 

McCurdy Park Tower is hard to beat, it sits in one of the most spectacular Wilderness Areas in all of Colorado, it has 27 documented trad routes up to 5.10 in Hubbel's guide with plenty of potential for new routes and generally excellent pro on super knobby Pikes Peak granite. Fortunately, the shortest approach involes 6 miles hiking uphill so it stays wilderness. The highly featured granite allows for some amazing crystal pinching and chicken head climbing along with a huge selection of crack climbing. Classic 400' beginner routes on the South West face and a good 5.10 called Rainbow Zen on the West Face see the most traffic. Rappel from trees/bolts with two ropes or 3rd class off the back side. There are also tons of undocumented spires and smaller towers in the Park that inspire exploration.

Getting There 

The Tower is accessed most easily from Twin Eagles trail head. If you are coming from Boulder take US 285 South for about an hour, go over Kenosha Pass into Jefferson and turn Left on Tarryall Road, Hwy 77 following signs for Tarryall Reservoir. Pass the reservoir and continue on for about 10 more twisty miles to Twin Eagles trail head on your left. From Colorado Springs follow US Hwy 24 West for close to an hour and turn right on Hwy 77 in Lake George. From the Trailhead follow trail 607 and signs to McCurdy Park for 6 miles. You will pass from National Forrest into the Wilderness area then up a pass via switchbacks before meeting up with the Hankins Pass Trail. Continue on 607 through a small valley and up a small hill before finally dropping into McCurdy. The Tower is the obvious 400 feet of granite on your right as you walk into the Park. You will pass an old log ruin on your left and follow a faint trail up the hill side on your right to the South West face. There are good bivy sites near the base, great meadow camping at the top of the valley and pleasant Aspen groves by the river.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For McCurdy Park Tower
the route as seen from McCurdy Park

Space Between 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : South Platte : ... : McCurdy Park Tower
This route has good climbing on each pitch, generally solid rock and an airy finish.Start to the left of the rappel gullies on a clean, less than vertical crack covered slab. A small tree can be slung for the first piece of pro.Pitch 1: 110' 5.7Climb low angled cracks straight up to a rampy crack system heading for a ledge with small trees. Just before the ledge pull a bulge/lie back move (5.7). Belay from trees.Pitch 2: 100' 5.7Move left from belay and follow crack system to a short vertical se...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for McCurdy Park Tower
Photos of McCurdy Park Tower Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Summer 2005.
Summer 2005.
This tribal solution to mosquitoes actually worked...
This tribal solution to mosquitoes actually worked...

Comments on McCurdy Park Tower Add Comment
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By James Garnett
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 12, 2003
Great photos and beta, Bryson! Another way to get there is to park at the Wigwam Trailhead, and then backpack about 15 miles or so in. Allow two days for this approach, as it gains/loses/regains/reloses/regains a couple 1000' --- but in such a beautiful area, it's a fantastic way to combine a moderate backpack, a climb, and a high, exposed walkoff through an old burn area (the McCurdy Park Trail, I think). Great fishing, too :)
By Ryan Gamlin
Sep 11, 2003
Self-resuce at McCurdy Park Tower 9-9-03:

My partner was injured while climbing a route near "Blockbuster" on 9/9. A loose block (about 6x6x4) pulled while he was following, striking his knee on the way down. Thankfully, there was no compound injury nor dire blood loss taking place, although the combination of lacerations, contusions, and weather (40 F) were conspiring to put him in to shock pretty quickly.

In getting us down, I left an anchor in the saddle to the north of the southmost summit level blocks (I can explain better if anyone is interested), one to the left of the obivous notch belay station directly below, and one about 60 feet below that. There is also a newly minted 40 meter Edelweiss (previously 60) running from the top anchor to the site of injury.

If anyone is headed up to McCurdy during the remainder of this season and is wiling to grab my gear, I'd a) pay return postage plus a check for a six-pack of ??? b)say "the rope is yours" and c) be really grateful.

my email is:

ncc_ryan (@t) yahoo.com

Thanks all.

-Ryan
By MJ
Sep 12, 2003
Ryan, check your email. If, for whatever reason, you didn't get the email, try me at markandjamie@adelphia.net

MJ
By shad O'Neel
Aug 16, 2004
This place is pretty nice- a wilderness setting for sure. The tower has its fair share of loose blocks though, and deciphering Hubbel's topo is good comedy for the most part. A couple of the harder routes look to have less lucies on them, but most routes will have thier fair share. ITs good fun, just be prepared for an adventure feeling and some wandering. The camping is excellent and is a grand place to get away from the crowds.
By TBD
Jul 5, 2005
Variable weather adds challenge to committing to the longer West face routes. Be prepared for the possibility of leaving some gear, as there aren't a lot of fixed anchors like the SW face. T-storms seem to roll into the area around noon.

The SW face is "choose your own adventure" climbing. I'd recommend forgoing trying to disipher Hubbel's topo and just start climbing a line that looks interesting. Lots of fun easy to moderate climbing that generally protects well.

Words of caution... there are a few loose blocks around, as should be expected. The rap down the SW face sucks. It is a rope snagging/ tangling nightmare. The walk off the back is easy and will likely save you some time.
By James Garnett
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 11, 2005
Went back here a week ago and had a few more thoughts about this area---first, definitely don't think too hard about Hubbel's topo. It's seriously confusing... and second, the granite here is *SHARP*. I considered climbing in my belay gloves in a few places. Finally, the reason all the rocks in this area is rounded is because it's a conglomerate of zillions of small granite pebbles that wear evenly and rapidly. Note that last statement: "rapidly." In some places the rottenness of the rock reminds me of the Elk range andCapitol Peak. Be careful out there!
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 27, 2010
Really nice outing with Beatrix Kiddo on Saturday, with the exception of ridiculous numbers of mosquitos! We had no insect repellent, so Beatrix made mud by spitting water into dirt and smeared it on her legs and arms. I did the same and it kept the bastards at bay until we climbed into the wind. So bring repellent if you go out into the Platte.

Incidentally, there is an abandoned white rope hung up on some ledges and flakes towards the left side of the wall. Any word on what happened there?

Descent - Facing the tower, you will see two large notches in the skyline. The best walk off is well to the right of the right hand notch as the ground nearly touches the ridge there. It's quite apparent once you get to the top. There are sheer drops on the back side from the left end past the second notch on the right.