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This is the right-facing dihedral just left of Ixtlan. The crux is the first few moves and is protected by RPs. The rest of the pitch is mostly hand and finger crack up the nice dihedral. At the top, step left to a small ledge with rap chains.
standard rack including RPs
My buddy Kevin topping out the route.
|By Kurt Arend|
Jul 16, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Hey I was on the route a month ago or so and you can lower with a 60m cord barley. Knot the end of your rope and the ends just touch. Also Ixtalan you can rap from the 3rd pitch station to the ground with one 60m.
May 2, 2007
The smallest (blue) ballnut eliminates the "R" factor on this one-bomber pro through the starting crux. The "RP protected seam" at the start doesn't take very good wires, offset or otherwise, and the ones that you can manage to dick in are the smallest ones comercially available. If 10D is your limit, take 2 blue ballnuts, you'll feel better about falling on them, the crux is techy and low, with the hardest moves really only protected by the slider(s). The rack for this one is 1 set wires, cams tiny to #4, with doubles from .4 or .5 up to #3 and maybe one more #1 camalot for the top corner if you like sewing it up. Without the ballnuts this route is a leg-breaker. Heads up, and enjoy this badass pitch.
|By Matt Kuehl|
From: Las Vegas
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
I agree, the opening super-thin crack doesn't take very trustworthy RP's. The thin crack itself is also of questionable quality and sounds brittle/hollow, so heads up! The top is really fun and totally cruiser by comparison.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 8, 2013
I protected the start as best I could with hb offset brass seemed to be fine. I've only used ball nuts once before so I'm no expert, but I think as Killis said they would work much better. I second Killis' rack for the climb the extra one is nice and I used a extra 2 down low as a multidirectional.