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Left Flank
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Maypop 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Jarrard, M. Flach
Page Views: 1,214
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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MayPop, 5.11a, Left Flank, RRG. Photo by John Bor...

Description 

A bouldery start leads to thin moves to the right of the bolt line. I thought it felt a bit stiff for a Red River Gorge 11a, but maybe I'm just weak.


Protection 

4 bolts. The 2 bolt anchor is missing a bolt. I found it best to just clip the anchor with another draw then climb up and left to the anchor for Mr. Bungle.


Location 

Located at Left Flank, just around the corner to the right of Mr. Bungle. To reach Left Flank, take 77 East through the Nada Tunnel, then 1 more mile East to the Martin's Fork trailhead on the left. Cross the street and take the Military Wall/Left Flank trailhead, then bear left at the Y.



Photos of Maypop Slideshow Add Photo
Adam rocking out on the little crimps!!
Adam rocking out on the little crimps!!
just getting off the ground proved difficult for me on this day... I'll blame it on the hot weather and high humidity!
BETA PHOTO: just getting off the ground proved difficult for m...
Comments on Maypop Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route was origionally rated 5.10, if I recall. In the early 90's it was getting harder by the month, as more holds popped off of it and went from thin incuts to sandy slopers. I imagine by now, after 15 years of ascents that it has stabilized, but it was a fragile easy climb before it was an insecure hard one.
I used to say that "Whoever bolted this thing had real vision. It will be the red's first 5.14 once the rest of the holds fall off."

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Jan 25, 2010

There is only one bolt at the anchors, pretty sure it's been like that for years now. You can either continue another 15 feet of easy climbing to the anchors on Mr. Bungle, or just set up a top rope on Maypop from the anchors of Mr. Bungle.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

As of yesterday the left bolt at the anchor is still missing a hanger. Pretty nutty it's been that way for years. Had I known about it I would have a brought a hanger and 1/2" nut with a few links--the bolt looks OK as best I could tell.
The right bolt/hanger/chain is bomber so we just had the last person rap off of it.

By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
May 29, 2012

The left bolt hanger is still missing.....

Stiff, technical climbing. Reminds me of the New.

By charris
Sep 30, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I think someone may have fixed the anchors because I didn't notice anything wrong when I climbed this route last week. I wasn't specifically looking for a problem, but I think I would have noticed a missing hanger.

By David Mitchell
From: Blacksburg, VA
Oct 25, 2012

Anchors are good now! Tough route, sustained for the first half.