This rock features some insane sport climbing ranging in diffculty from 5.9 to low end .13 on usually overhanging granite, with excellent views of Emerald Bay and Lake Tahoe.
You will find this rock in the sun most of the day, and it will cook on a warm summer's day.
Most routes should be rappelled off or lowered off quickdraws, as the bolts are often not quite to the top of the rock.
There are loads of excellent climbs here, and they are too numberous to mention.
Approach time: 10 - 20 minutes.
From the parking lot, instead of heading up the main path to Desolation Wilderness, head right into the pine trees from the trailhead. You will find a narrow trail heading gently uphill perpendicular to the main trail in the shade beneath the trees. Take this up about 100 yards until a small trail is found that left and uphill heads up through the rocks to the base of Mayhem Cove.
Mayhem Cove can be seen from the parking lot several hundred yards distant by looking in the foreground to the northwest.
Climbing Season Traffic By Month
16 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Mayhem Cove
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mayhem Cove:
Car Jacker 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Diamond 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
DWI 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Cajun Hell 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Mayhem Cove
Mutilated Corpses 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CA
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : Mayhem Cove
Climb up to the first small roof and pull up into the short left facing corner above. Go up the short corner and try and find a way to rest below the next roof about midway up the route. The 1st crux (maybe 11b/c) involves pulling up into the corner above the first roof. Next, pull the second roof using fantastic sloper side pulls; the second roof is the harder of the two cruxes (11c). Following the roof, continue up and then slightly left on great, juggy rock to a third and final roof...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for Mayhem Cove
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Mayhem Cove as seen from highway 89 about 3 miles ...
Kurt Smith climbing at Mayhem Cove.
Photo by Blitz...
By Rob Eison
From: Denver, CO
Sep 20, 2003
Curious about Cajun Hell at Mayhem Cove. I've started working the second pitch, what I think is the 5.12c Drinkin White Lightnin'. It looks like it runs along a thin diagonal seam left of the hanging belay on the headwall above the cave but there's also a line straight up and/or up to the right. Anybody got info or beta tips?