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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Mayflower 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 2003 Meschinelli, Johnston, Munn, Eisinger
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Matt Salter on Jun 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Doug Kern in the hanging dihedral P3
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The first pitch is very popular, but unfortunately, the rest is a mystery to most. If the top pitch of this otherwise fun climb would clean up, it might be worthy of 4 stars. Like most or the other routes on the Pilgrim Wall, three very different pitches, with an exposed, final hanging corner. DO IT!

    P1: Up the face, trending right past many bolts, aiming for a crack. Follow the crack (5.7) up to a beautiful ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10c

    P2: Move left off the belay into a left facing corner with a crack. Follow the crack and face up to a lone bolt below another left facing shallow corner. Protect well with smallish gear, make some pumpy moves, and gain a small ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9+

    P3: Beautiful moves up and right, passing bolts, aiming for the hanging corner above. Make a hard entry move into the corner, and then stem and face climb your way up the corner (dirty), with small stoppers as protection, to a grassy ledge with another 2 bolt anchor. 5.10c


    Location 

    The leftmost bolted face on the Pilgrim Wall, about 5 feet right of the dirty start to It Don't Come Easy.


    Protection 

    Bolts and a full rack up to a #2 Camalot. RP's advisable also.



    Comments on Mayflower Add Comment
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    By Jeffrey Gagliano
    From: Pennsburg, PA
    Jul 18, 2011

    This is awesome route. Do NOT let the description deter you from P2 & P3. I did this soon after it was first bolted, and did not think in was dirty. Besides, if you want clean go to Gunks. The approach and entry into the final corner on P3 is incredible. IMO, this IS a 4 star route.

    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 12, 2012
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    A few thoughts after a couple of trips up this fine route, including one very recent ascent:

    -P1 is very solid in the grade. I routinely lead considerably harder, really enjoy technical, thin face, and find this pitch rather difficult.

    -P2 is also very fun, but has some large, quite hollow blocks which one climbs over and through down low, and in which it is tempting to protect. Any gear in this rock should be considered questionable. The moves past the 2 bolts are interesting and pleasant. There is some suspect rock on the steeper finishing section of the pitch as well, and the pro through this section is not especially straightforward. 5.9+ PG seems fair. Definitely not a pitch to stick your fledgling 5.9 leader on.

    -P3 is excellent, protects well, and as of 2 days ago, is reasonably clean. All the holds one needs are clean, in any case.

    A great route.

    Rack: Single set from blue Mastercam to #1 Camalot; single set of small to medium wires, including some RPs; draws and slings; 1 60m cord.

    By Chris Duca
    Administrator
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jul 13, 2012
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Got on the first pitch of this today, and, like the aforementioned comment by Derek, I find this pitch extremely stout in the grade (read: add a letter grade, or two), despite having climbed it many times. Nevertheless, it is fun as hell!