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DescriptionThe Maybird Slide Area is home to some recently developed areas. A big thanks to those who built the trail; that must have taken a lot of work. The rock here is Little Cottonwood's famous quartz monzonite, but don't be expecting to find sweeping slabs here. Most of the walls are steep, juggy with the occasional crack or seam. The rock quality is good and the routes have been cleaned up, but there are sections of rotten rock. Given that this is further up the canyon and the trail isn't obvious, this area is secluded in nature. Most of the cliffs are east-facing, so they are in the shade after 2pm or so. This makes for great climbing on hot summer afternoons or for early morning climbing in cooler weather. There was a gentle breeze coming down the gully in the evening. If you're looking for something new, this is definitely worth the hike. Getting ThereReset your odometer at the "neon" sign at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Drive ~3.8 miles up the canyon. You'll pass the "Maybird Avalanche Area" sign, go around a corner and then pull off to the side of the road. A lone pine tree (not very big) and a rock cairn mark the trail. This trail has cleared away most of the brush but is still relatively new. It is easy to follow and leads to a rock-filled gulch. Rock cairns take you on the path of least resistance through the gulch and into the side canyon. There are remnants of two stone huts at the first climbing area, the Purple Wall. The Maybird East Area is visible to the east from this point. Plan on a 20-25 minute approach from the car to this point. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maybird Slide Area:
Feline Stall Tactics 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Maybird East Side
PetThePussy 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Maybird East Side
Pump It Until Purple 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Purple Wall
Conundrum 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II The Puzzle
Cross Words 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Puzzle
The Wine Drip 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet Purple Wall
Purple Pumper 5.10a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Purple Wall
Mad Swiller 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet Purple Wall
Squeeze It Until It's Purple 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet Purple Wall
Drop Out 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Purple Wall
Bubbles & Booze 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet Purple Wall
The ButterFace 5.11+ A1 Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 90 feet The Butterface Buttress
Butterknife 5.11+ A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II The Butterface Buttress
Featured Route For Maybird Slide Area
Conundrum 5.9 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Puzzle
After viewing it from afar and then while approaching it, I initially thought we'd be disappointed. We were surprised to find a fun granite slab with thought provoking moves. Unlike many LCC slab climbs that may contain hard pure friction and repetitve movement from chickenhead to chickenhead, this rock has many features. It becomes steeper than it appears from below. As it is more fractured, you will encounter some cracks that easily accept gear as well. Pitch #1: Not all that homogenous ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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