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Maybird Slide Area
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Butterface Buttress, The 
Maybird East Side 
Purple Wall 
Puzzle, The 

Maybird Slide Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Lat, Long: 40.5754, -111.7083 Map
Page Views: 28,567. Good page?   
Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jun 27, 2007

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The impressive-looking Butterface Buttress further...

Description 

The Maybird Slide Area is home to some recently developed areas. A big thanks to those who built the trail; that must have taken a lot of work. The rock here is Little Cottonwood's famous quartz monzonite, but don't be expecting to find sweeping slabs here. Most of the walls are steep, juggy with the occasional crack or seam. The rock quality is good and the routes have been cleaned up, but there are sections of rotten rock. Given that this is further up the canyon and the trail isn't obvious, this area is secluded in nature. Most of the cliffs are east-facing, so they are in the shade after 2pm or so. This makes for great climbing on hot summer afternoons or for early morning climbing in cooler weather. There was a gentle breeze coming down the gully in the evening. If you're looking for something new, this is definitely worth the hike.


Getting There 

Reset your odometer at the "neon" sign at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Drive ~3.8 miles up the canyon. You'll pass the "Maybird Avalanche Area" sign, go around a corner and then pull off to the side of the road. A lone pine tree (not very big) and a rock cairn mark the trail. This trail has cleared away most of the brush but is still relatively new. It is easy to follow and leads to a rock-filled gulch. Rock cairns take you on the path of least resistance through the gulch and into the side canyon. There are remnants of two stone huts at the first climbing area, the Purple Wall. The Maybird East Area is visible to the east from this point. Plan on a 20-25 minute approach from the car to this point.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maybird Slide Area:
Feline Stall Tactics   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Maybird East Side
PetThePussy   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Maybird East Side
Pump It Until Purple   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Purple Wall
Conundrum   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   The Puzzle
Cross Words   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Puzzle
The Wine Drip   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Purple Wall
Purple Pumper   5.10a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Purple Wall
Mad Swiller   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Purple Wall
Squeeze It Until It's Purple   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Purple Wall
Drop Out   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Purple Wall
Bubbles & Booze   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Purple Wall
The ButterFace   5.11+ A1     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 90 feet   The Butterface Buttress
Butterknife   5.11+ A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   The Butterface Buttress
Browse More Classics in Maybird Slide Area

Featured Route For Maybird Slide Area
The Puzzle from down gully about 100 feet away

Conundrum 5.9  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Puzzle
After viewing it from afar and then while approaching it, I initially thought we'd be disappointed. We were surprised to find a fun granite slab with thought provoking moves. Unlike many LCC slab climbs that may contain hard pure friction and repetitve movement from chickenhead to chickenhead, this rock has many features. It becomes steeper than it appears from below. As it is more fractured, you will encounter some cracks that easily accept gear as well. Pitch #1: Not all that homogenous ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Maybird Slide Area Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at the road from the Purple Wall.

Looking down at the road from the Purple Wall.

The view from the Maybird East area.

The view from the Maybird East area.

Butter Face climbs the crack that emerges from the brush, then is follows a bolt line that meanders right and up.  Who knows where it goes from there?  There is a fixed green rope to make the super rotten approach and descent less of a headache.

BETA PHOTO: Butter Face climbs the crack that emerges from the...

When you see these signs, pull off the road.  This is the place.

BETA PHOTO: When you see these signs, pull off the road. This...

This is the trailhead.  You can see the Maybird gully in the distance and the lone pine tree with the rock cairn beneath it in the foreground.

BETA PHOTO: This is the trailhead. You can see the Maybird gu...

Mike Bird on the Purple Pumper.

Mike Bird on the Purple Pumper.


Comments on Maybird Slide Area Add Comment
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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 12, 2007

Buy the topo for this area at IME. The proceeds fund the bolts you clip.

By Michael Buchanan
Jul 11, 2010

I agree with Craig, the work that must have gone into the trail to the crag must have been less than fun. My compliments, and my thanks!