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Start on the flake below the bolt. Place small pro in flake. Smear to bolt. Smear to small roof. Undercling left. Place 1" pro. Climb vertical crack out of small roof. This is the crux. Climb up the crack on the ramp. Place 1-2 1"-2" pro over 30 rampy feet. Two hangers to rappel or TR from. Can also access a TR to Forget About It (5.11a; 5.10c variation) or Thinkin About It (5.10c/d) just to the climbers left of Maxwell's Hammer. Great route for a first trad lead!
South face of Spooner crag. Start is below a lone bolt where the large ramp becomes more vertical.
Standard rack to 2". One bolt 15' off the ground. Two anchors at the top.
|By Tyson W.|
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 15, 2012
The crack above the roof takes great passive pro. It is a quite shallow crack so cams don't always seat well in it. Bring some nuts, hexes, or both and get some good practice placing these on fairly mild terrain. Crux for me is the run-out to the first bolt. Be cautious here, cause even with a piece in that first flake, you would surely deck if you were to fall before gaining the first bolt.