Pitch 1: Fun face climbing past small gear leads to groove climbing. Then a final traverse out right to a two bolt anchor. 90-100 feet.
Pitch 2: traverse back out left to a beautiful, right-facing, fingers corner. Looks and climbs very similar to the crux pitch of Cloud Tower. Climb fingers to a pod, then tips out a roof. Finish with face climbing protected by two bolts. Rap off of a two bolt anchor. 65-75 feet.
Notes: Pitches one and two can be combined with little rope drag. If toproping the second pitch it is advisable to leave a piece of gear in the tips roof; otherwise the rope may get stuck.
This route is located 250 yards to the right of Eve of War. It is most easily identified by the varnished, beautiful, right-facing, finger corner 100 feet off the ground. It is difficult to miss.
A single set of cams from #00 Metolius to #4 Camalot. Doubles in #0 Metolius. Triples in #1 - #2 Metolius. A single standard set of stoppers. 3-5 single length runners.
|By Skyeler Congdon|
From: his van
Aug 8, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
The second pitch of this route may be one of GJ's best finger cracks. It's debatable. Definitely a must do for the seasoned Creek-fiend who wants less crowds and more varnish...I remember thinking this route is what Fingers in a Lightsocket must have felt like 20 years ago!
There might be a few more new lines waiting on this wall, but for the most part the Rough Wall leaves first ascentionists disappointed. If you climb this route, check out the "Johnny Ringo Project": it starts in the same spot as Maximum Impact but moves out left to a crucial orange TCU placement and then into the danger zone where I tried to drill a bolt on lead- not so smart. It'll go....