Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
Cornelius T 
Crankenstein T 
Cupcake T 
Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
Hurley-Fowler T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lower Slot Right T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
TTL T 
TTR T,TR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Max Factor 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Carrigan & Levin
Page Views: 6,412
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Adam Brink making it look easy.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Max Factor is one of the best 5.11 finger cracks in Vedauwoo. Locate this beauty at the far end of the crag from the parking lot, just around the corner right from the Tubes. The climbing is positive with excellent finger locks until you reach a distinct crux just before the crack bulges. There are good smears for the feet on the right, and if you utilize your left toe well in the crack then relying on the shallow, technical jams at the crux won't seem so desperate. Still, it seems that one short section is a show-stopper for a lot of climbers. Above, the positive locks resume. Lower off of the (new) bolts on the underside of the big bulge (this is the top of P1 of Grand Traverse) or continue up the 5.10+ crux bulge of that route (possible in one pitch). This climb was tried many times by many climbers before Australian Kim Carrigan onsighted it, and compared it in difficulty to Fish Crack in the Valley (5.12b). It has cleaned up considerably since then; in 1980 the crack was filled with gravel, loose bits of rock, and vegetation, and felt like 5.12 to me. Today most climbers will agree it is 5.11 something-or-other, and an area classic.

Protection 

Medium wired nuts work well on this climb. I would bring a good selection from wireds, TCUs to 1" cams, and singles up to 3", or something like that.


Photos of Max Factor Slideshow Add Photo
Getting into the business. <br /> <br />Photo taken by Nate Sydnor.
Getting into the business. Photo taken by Nate Sy...
My first lead attempt. This thing is hard.  <br /> <br />Photo taken by Nate Sydnor.
My first lead attempt. This thing is hard. Photo...
Sunset send!
Sunset send!

Comments on Max Factor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Jul 2, 2002

I found this rout is very very hard in my humble opinion. For people with big fingers it will be difficult. Not that I have a good reference base for grads in the hard eleven but seemed to be twelve to.
By richard magill
Jul 19, 2004

Beautiful and burly.
By Jesse Ryan
Jul 22, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Awesome line - Vedauwoo 11c - easily as hard as a 12a sport line.
By willem
Sep 15, 2004

Do this route!
By nolteboy
Apr 20, 2005

Vedauwoo Mega Classic. Once you're through the crux, the technical difficulty drops big time - if you've got the gas to stay with it after that, you've got it.
By Brian Weinstein
Jul 27, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks for the history, Steve. The crux is quick, maybe 2 moves. My favorite finger crack in Vedauwoo.
By lenore sparks
From: Heidelberg, Germany
Sep 6, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is significantly easier than .11c if you have little fingers. Butt touchers beware.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Excellent climb. Easy for 11c 'voo, but maybe I just suck at anything wider than hands.
By Peter
From: Tempe, AZ
May 21, 2012

Someone compared this route to the headwall pitch of J Crack at Lumpy. If that pitch is 11c, than Max Factor is somewhere around 11b. The hard climbing section on this one is a little longer than on J Crack crux, but the moves seem to be easier. At least finger locks are much easier. This is one of my favorite route at Vedauwoo.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 31, 2012

Don't get too focused on jamming near the top of this one. I found a nice crimpy sidepull on the right side of the crack to be very useful right before the crack steepens and eases off.