Went to PJ to climb a few months back and found that some misguided good samaritan had pulled the first clip on both Ménage and Miccis …what the hell? Anyway after climbing both routes with the bolts missing, and thinking I liked it better when they were there, I pulled the remaining bolts, over drilled the original holes, and installed 3/8”x4” Rawls and new hangers. Both routes are bomber now.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jan 30, 2007
Many, MANY thanks for the time, energy, and cost.
Romain & I actually arrived with drill and replacement bolts in hand in October to do the same thing. We were surprised to see that you had already been there. We were both grateful of the time and hard work that you saved us, and we appreciated clipping the new bolts.
I'm glad the bolt replacements were appreciated. The original buttonheads were a mixed bag. A couple of them came out like they were placed in butter, while a couple of others seemed like they would hold a truck still. The heads on the ones that came out easily looked as if they had only seen 1-2 light hammer blows on install, indicating they probably never bottomed out in the hole enough to expand properly.