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Pleasure Palace
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Unsorted Routes:

Matthew 7:24 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Heins, 1990
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is a one-sequence wonder that could be considered a bolted boulder problem. Easy moves lead to a tricky sequence pulling around a bulge on big holds. After this, easy arete moves lead to an anchor. Enjoyable moves but the brief difficulties are all over 1/3rd of the way up.

Location 

Middle of Upper Pleasure Palace Wall, just left of Bop Till You Drop.

Protection 

Bolts. Rap Anchors.


Comments on Matthew 7:24 Add Comment
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By another Chad
Jun 20, 2013

"Just bolts"

Do you mean bare hangers?


Chad
By Reid Randall
Jul 29, 2013

Fun route, though the crux (boulder-y, within the first few bolts), could be a little spicy if one were to fall whilst/prior to cranking over the vertical section onto the slab finish. Also, as of late June of 2013, the last bolt hanger (prior to the hangers at the top/finish) is missing, which means it is "run out" at the top. However, the last 2/3 of this climb is essentially 5.6 slab, so the missing hanger is not that big of a deal.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This route is a bomb. Huge holds last for three moves through an overhang. Romp up a loose, 4th-class arete to the top, where anchors bolted to the level rock at the top do not have chains and cannot facilitate lowering or rappelling. My partner (a girl) and I both agreed that this route goes at 5.9 at most... if you are desperate enough to do it.